Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit.

Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. Dyneema. This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. Pros. The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. Aug 18, 2019 · Your decision will need to be based on whether you have preferences regarding price, weight, or the specific attributes of Nylon vs. Dec 6, 2015 · Dyneema for extendable draws and extra long runners for gear anchors. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Using nylon webbing or sewn slings does offer a bit of savings compared to dynex or spectra, but the bulk kills that for me. Light and low bulk (unlike 7mm nylon), strong (unlike 6mm nylon), and flexible and easy to work with (unlike tech cord). Arguably this material is more durable in a pack build that the 2. Dyneema and kevlar is too slippery (especially when wet) and the water knot can and will most likely fail under tension. 1. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. But, my partners and I seem to be switching back to nylon slings as our Dyneema slings wear out. Shop for Bulk Webbing. It's a polyester face fabric laminated to a dyneema composite fabric. Mar 2, 2018 · The rope stretch vastly outweighs the difference between nylon & Dyneema, negating the difference for slings & draws. At first I was going to buy some sling like St'Anneau from Petzl, but then I read this article and it makes sense that sling/webbing could actually be less abrasion resistant because the entire half side of the material is exposed to the rock ledge at a time, whereas only a percentage of a 9mm-10. I have a couple of Edelrid's Techweb slings that are a dyneema core and nylon sheath. Aug 29, 2017 · So, regarding certain climbing softgoods - mostly slings and dogbones - most of us know about the respective properties of nylon (not as static, absorbs more water, handles repeated flexing very well, etc. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Bulk webbing is only available in nylon. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Nylon for anchors and tethers. It was an experiment that turned out not to be worth it for me. So that leaves me with ballistic nylon/cordura as my choices for external fabrics. Aug 31, 2020 · The discussion over nylon vs. Use the right tool for the right application. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. 70 denier woven nylon are gonna shred. But yeah, I think it became popular because the military etc had access to it and a lot of survival authors and trainers were ex military back in the 1980's when paracord and Ferro rods and little survival kits in tins really took off in the civilian world. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. It also eliminates the need for a 18L ish backpack. g. dyneema is a poorer choice for friction hitches, but it'll work in a pinch of course. You can see the strength of the nylon sling is higher in every case. I like the space vs the tech brief I had. the norwegian standard advices nylon, but it hasn't been updated for a while and i believe kevlar/aramid will be the new norm -- however, nylon has worked and served for a long time, i have no issues with using it, nor giving one to my clients. I like the 6mm rope. His closing statement: Junk is rated for way more than you need. 4oz/square yard and is even lighter than dyneema X-grid. Loop sewn strength around 19 kn. Nylon will exhibit a lower peak force in the system than dynema, speaking on shock loading. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). slings. 7mm is what people usually use for nylon. If you can afford it, we recommend buying mostly Dyneema due to the lighter weight and bulk, but still carrying 2-3 nylon slings for using in anchors or to extend the first piece of a pitch, if desired. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). For weight, dyneema is incredible. Factor 2 falls directly onto the anchor with little to no rope out, should be avoided, regardless of sling material used to build the anchor. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. Here are the results. I own five or six DEFY bags and several accessories, pouches etc. Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. I included a sewn nylon and hand tied draw as I have seen both in the wild. 5mm would widely be considered too thin. and I sorta am more confident in a normal clip vs a fidlock. From the top: Mammut Contact, Petzl Pur'Anneau, BD Dynex, Sterling Dyneema, Camp USA 11mm, Trango Low Bulk, Metolius Open Loop, BlueWater Titan, Sterling Nylon, and BD Nylon. The only real advantage for me was less bulk for Dyneema alpine draws. Handled like a dream. Dec 17, 2020 · Dyneema doesn't stretch so the small stretch in nylon makes a 'big' difference on paper but is more like deciding if you'd rather smack your head against asphalt or concrete. ) First Reddit post! Ok so I am debating whether to pull the trigger on the standard Aer City Sling or wait for the X-Pac to restock. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be my safest bet? I can't wrap my head around which approach is the hardest to mess up, which is probably the one I'd use. In the same test on a drop tower, a FF2 absolutely destroyed a dyneema sling with a knot, while the same fall in a knotted nylon sling actually reduced the impact because the knot tightened and stretched absorbing the load. My waxed canvas Insidious was my go-to "personal item" when flying before COVID, because it really maxed out the dimensions on most US airlines and could fit under the seat in flight. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing rope I had some nylon slings and the knots they make are a pain, you can still use them as a girth hitch to clean, in all I prefer dyneema, it’s thinner, smaller and easier to make the knots Reply mustang__1 • Also, Dyneema is 2x cost of nylon and lasts 1/2 as long. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. I hate the scratchiness and don’t trust it for longevity- I’m already seeing pieces >5 years start to delaminate. 92oz Cuben hybrid, but at a higher weight. dyneema (more static, absorbs less water, more slippery, stronger per unit of mass - so less material is needed to achieve the same strength ratings, etc. - including a few Insidious / Insidious Jr. VX07 isnt durable because it's 70 denier face fabric is just that. Edit: I forgot a really important point, brought up by the comments below, Dyneema is tricky to knot: 1. Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. Few are really aware of it but Xpac X21 is 25% lighter than VX21 @ around 4. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Personally, I'd recommend 240cm dyneema instead. Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. If you slip off the belay ledge and shock-load the anchor, dyneema breaks surprisingly (and scarily) easily. BUT - when creating a situation where a high factor fall could happen on the sling alone, nylon has proven safer. A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. . Sewn slings are better in strength, weight and usability. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). The only con is cost. And yes we are scared of falling. NYLON. ) vs. Plus, in a pinch, the cord could be used for a prusik (or two), which is another thing you wouldn't want to do with a dyneema sling. Some people use 7mm cordelettes(10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings(22kn), and some people use the rope. They are slimmer in width than a traditional nylon sling, but not as thin as a dyneema one, and much thicker in depth and stiffer than a purely nylon or dyneema sling. Bad things (can) happen. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking dmm has a very nice video regarding slings. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Polyester is for all other purposes or if I’m trying to cut costs. My first choice for lining. I love the rough, rugged look of the standard 1680d Cordura ballistic nylon, but I also love the idea of the waterproof nature of the X-Pac material and the other small added upgrades. That looks like a dyneema/spectra sling for climbing. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. X-Pac I want to love for it’s waterproofing. cheaper; colorful I've only been slacking since last Sunday, and only had to buy webbing because I already had the rest of the gear from climbing. Knotting slings, especially single strand, can drop strength a lot. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Polyamide is nylon and often a bit lighter but I hear the UV resistance is considerably less. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. Dyneema is significantly more static than nylon so it essentially has no stretch so the the deceleration from a fall directly onto it occurs over a much shorter relative timespan compared to the nylon. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. The trade off with UHMWPE is that it is much stronger per weight, but weaker under shock load. Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. Hence the name. afaik you can only knot nylon tape safely. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. Personally I like Dyneema webbing for load bearing purposes but it is $$$ and available in limited widths so you can’t use it with all components. Dyneema slings are prized for their light weight and low bulk, and alpine/winter climbers often prefer them for not absorbing water. 5mm rope is. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. The HMG packs use fabric made by the company Dyneema, but it's not made out of the Dyneema Fiber (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene). Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. So now I think my system is set, 2L tech case/sling, 6L sling, 15L sling, 25L evade, and 40L capsule for travel. Very strong material. Dyneema doesn't stretch so the small stretch in nylon makes a 'big' difference on paper but is more like deciding if you'd rather smack your head against asphalt or concrete. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Posted by u/patjune19 - 1 vote and 15 comments For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. But knotting dyneema is far worse than knotting nylon slings. Since I had the scale out I decided to weigh my sport draws. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. 6mm in reality is probably fine - but you don't see too many folks using it. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Cord is useful for creating custom-length slings, such as a cordelette, that can be used in anchor construction or in friction hitches for rappels and aid Sep 1, 2023 · All 10 slings that we tested for this review side-by-side for comparison, arranged from thinnest on top to thickest on the bottom. Climbing Cord. The rope stretch vastly outweighs the difference between nylon & Dyneema, negating the difference for slings & draws. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. As you probably know, dyneema doesn't stretch at all. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". Feb 3, 2017 · The peak impact force will be lower with a nylon anchor sling than with a dyneema sling, but high enough in either case to potentially cause injury to the climber or to cause gear to pull out. For the same diameter rope, dyneema is strong than steel. The home of Climbing on reddit. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. Most trad climbers would prefer to make do with whatever's already on their rack (ie slings) for the rappels rather than bringing a bulkier specialty piece. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. Jul 2, 2024 · Edelrid tested the strength of both “polyamid” aka nylon, and “high-density polyethylene”, aka Dyneema, in 3 ways: 1) a single strand, 2) in a sewn sling, and 3) a sewn sling with a single overhand knot in the middle. 5x the single line rated load. e. Dyneema for extendable draws and extra long runners for gear anchors. I've found that X-Pac bags are much easier to clean (and less likely to even need cleaning) and keep their shape when not fully packed out better than nylon. I guess the stretch is useful when it is put under a sudden load, like when the parachute opens. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. The reason dyneema breaks in those videos is not due to the peak forces being applied, but rather the how dynamic the force is applied. I use 6mm nylon cord. In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema . The only things that aren't Dyneema on my rack are my rope (because you want it to stretch to softly catch your falls) and some of my long slings (because some of them need to he wide like tubular nylon). Used to EDC and travel with 500D and 1000D Cordura bags, then tried X-Pac and 1680D ballistic nylon. I've been using the… Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. If you make your own slings, tie your nylon webbing with a water knot that has long tails (at least 2" long). Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. We used to use 9/16” nylon super tape slings. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. Dyneema composite fabric is 2 layers of plastic film with some Dyneema fibers laminated in between to reinforce it. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. Nylon slings are a bit heavier, but having to rack 10 of those would be a massive pain. In the climbing world, that rating is the break strength, not the safe working load limit! And any knots significantly reduce the strength of dyneema slings. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. bydubrm xvhcfefm bldwx ftkyv botzkxt iud flro pkk pkblq ydlo cdgnjz fqpde oiouij lljocfkj iqd