Climbing strength reddit J Strength Cond Res. Not very applicable to climbing We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Also if you add more strength training you should make sure you are eating more to adequately recover. However, ring work in addition to training open hand on a hang board can do the same thing if you don't have access to a gym that sets slopers well. I currently weigh ~175lbs and deadlift 485 (455 with switch grip, no straps) which seems like reasonable grip strength for my weight. I suggest climbing on pinches as much as possible. I actually think body strength (core) is the best to train in the beginning. Technique was the game We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Other users comment on the effectiveness, volume, and goals of the approach. Apr 2, 2021 · A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. I'm certain that Ed Coan's method would be beneficial for climbing. do strength training. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Still, at some point the strength gains are so slow that just losing weight is the best method. Friday - climbing with focus on projecting limit boulders on the spray wall Saturday - Rest - maybe do some light antagonist exercises and stretching Sunday - climbing with focus on easier boulders so more circuits and volume and not so much hard moves. See full list on rei. Have had climber's elbow in the past so doing lots of deep lock-offs isn't ideal in case it aggrevates it. Someone your height would probably operate best between 140-180 lbs. Not only will you not be able to adhere to a 1000 calorie per day diet, but you will also quickly lose muscle and strength as your body will go into starvation mode and begin consuming its own muscle. I’m addition, wanting to get better at climbing, can motivate you to e. Pullups don't translate to climbing strength all that much, but they're great for just general strength. Just be patient, keep climbing and you will get stronger. Ok to be more specific I do mean wrist strength, so stabilising the hand in flexion specifically with an open hand grip. The human body as a climbing "machine" is a complicated thing, because it's really a sport that combines problem solving, strength, stamina, movement, etc. You almost certainly have a lot of technique, footwork, movement that will improve with climbing and it’s not solely finger strength holding you back. hang for 6C boulder. Within the framework of ways that strength is specific, there are eight ways in which strength can produce targeted effects, as follows: (1) contraction mode (eccentric or concentric), (2) velocity, (3) joint angle of peak contraction or range of motion, (4) the number of reps, or the point on the strength-endurance continuum, (5) the degree of Either that, or what I do (when I have the option to do so in my current frustratingly scheduled work-life balance) is train finger strength in the morning/noon before a climbing session in the afternoon/evening. I have noticed that my lock-off strength is really bad, in that I can't do lock-offs hardly at all. once a week with a quick bodyweight focused full body strength routine would probably be able to help while not negatively impacting climbing Technique for sure! I am stupid strong, have pretty decent flexibility from being a dancer, and I improved my finger strength over time but I was crap until I learned how to properly move on the wall. Really, it's like a dance up the wall. 9 months ago I could do a one arm pull-up and hanging on a 25 mm edge was difficult despite exclusively trying to focus on easy crimp climbs for six months while being miserable, and Reddit Jan 20, 2024 · Weight is a huge factor in climbing. Climbers put a lot of time into hangboard training specifically for holding small edges, perhaps grip strength was the wrong term to use and has given people the wrong idea. As you get more conditioned it will be easier to do both climbing and strength training. So while climbing isn’t the most efficient way of neither losing fat or gaining muscle, it is, to some, a more achievable way of staying fit/healthy. Avoid the finger strength training for now, injuries are your worst nightmare and will set you back more than anything. Thanks for the support though! Training 2 Monday: deadlift+overhead press Tuesday: climbing + campusing (strength) Wednesday: squat + bench Thursday: climbing Friday: climbing + campusing (strength/endurance) Saturday: rest (/squat + overhead press) Sunday: climbing Climbing is more fun that lifting weight or going for a run for many people. You will gain strength while practicing climbing skill, but you won’t gain climbing skill through physical training. If you want to "balance" strength/aesthetics/climbing, you may want to consider adding in BW exercises/progressions at the end of your climbing days, excluding the pull-progressions until you feel like you need to augment that strength to climb better, which I suspect will not happen for quite a long time. I have been sport climbing for about 8 years now off and on, but have recently switched more of my focus to bouldering due to geography. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Climbing certainly has more of a skill component than "pure" strength/fitness sports, like weightlifting or running. Adding hangboarding to your current volume of 3x 2. IMHO, not lifting might not be the thing holding you back from sending, but certainly upping your fitness isn't going to hurt your climbing at all. Most strong people have pulling strength to do it slow but it's only possible if you train your wrist strength in false grip. When I started climbing my fingers felt like wet noodles compared to what others could do. Train in isolation - it's more measurable. 5 hours a week would likely end in injury. Your view around weight loss for climbing are not based in reality and insanely unhealthy. 2004; 18(3):675-84. Otherwise, currently I tend to do pinch training on a non-climbing evening followed by some basic dumbbell work. Will check if there are significant deviations from linearity for taller guys. A low-volume, high-intensity approach to strength training, with compound exercises as the centerpiece, maximizes your efficiency in the gym and helps you develop the strength you need to support your climbing without burning out. The home of Climbing on reddit. For context: climbing ~5 years, around 7C+ (V10). Looks a bit strange that discrepancy. com May 8, 2023 · For those who are really into strength training, there are plenty of nuanced methods that will help you make minor incremental improvements, but for a rock climber looking to produce more force on the climbing wall, once you’re coordinated and gaining recruitment, those additional small improvements probably won’t help you see increases in Oct 18, 2024 · This way, you have more time and energy left for climbing-specific training. I had to relearn a lot of technique. Apr 25, 2023 · Effect of core strength on the measure of power in the extremities. ), but I think a basic barbell strength program is gonna be most beneficial thing to do in the gym (until you're actually strong). Hey everyone, been climbing for about 1. Other than that - learn to climb The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. Alternatively you could try adding one strength exercise to your program every two weeks to slowly ease into it. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Campusing on pinches is much more of an upper body workout and will have little to no effect on your hand strength. Helps with locking off in different positions and on different holds and will allow you to experiment with body position to find what works best for you. Omar is another guy who probably has 8C boulder strength but only climbs around 8A+ish. Of course you can add in accessory work for sport specific strength (in this case pull ups etc. Please leave any extra curricular training (ie: anything other than climbing/bouldering) for the first two years. Interesting thougth about body size vs. Either that, or what I do (when I have the option to do so in my current frustratingly scheduled work-life balance) is train finger strength in the morning/noon before a climbing session in the afternoon/evening. People often misattribute finger strength to all their climbing troubles but there's a significant movement and body position component If you look at climbing through an athletic lens - the only thing that really matters is topping out the problem/route/whatever. The reason is because getting too strong in the fingers / pulling too fast will help you cheat, preventing you from developing an efficient climbing style since you can come really far with being strong, but sloppy. Good luck and hope it helps. If you look at front levers and leg raises and similar exercises you can find parallels in climbing. There obviously is a lot of stuff out there about finger strength training which in turn of course does train forearm flexion but it doesn't target it in a way (at least for me, I think) for sloper or compression climbing. 2012; 26(2):373-80. Of course climbing is the best way to get better at climbing, but more climbing is not always an option. So I decided to start training properly. 2 more cents from someone else who transitioned from weak and technique to strong. I'm currently in this boat. But I also think that there are more efficient ways to train climbing specific finger strength. Even for a body builder - unless grip strength is something they specifically train - they probably don't go above 50%. Slow muscles ups are actually more of a gimmick. If you want to train pinch strength for climbing, climb pinches. I really enjoy strength training too, which is why like yourself, I've come to climbing with an above average pull strength for people who climb at my grade. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5. I don't know anyone who's testing it, but I would wager that contact strength / time to full recruitment is probably a better indicator of truly usable climbing strength. While reading this sub and other sources I realize that most climbers/boulderers mostly train for strength. Yes, climbing has had a counter culture heritage, but also obsession with strength and competition has been fundamental to climbing culture pretty much from the start, and especially over the past ~30 odd years that sport climbing and bouldering have taken off. If you're very new then one, you'll get significantly better at climbing efficiently as you spend more time climbing, and you'll end up needing to use less strength to hold on, and two you'll just naturally get stronger fingers through climbing lots. The key strength component is largely static, pullups will definitely help as will core training but it doesn't translate fantastically. At the end of the day, you've got to realise that climbing is still largely a skill sport and finger strength is not a be-all end-all, and if you don't put enough time and effort into working hard problems then your max hang numbers count for fuck all. Both climbing outdoors more and climbing harder grades in the gym will require open hand positions-- actually, all hand positions-- more frequently. That is, low rep, high intensity with progressive overload, eg 5x5 pullups with weights etc. 14 and V11. Also, rock climbing depends on developing capillarity and avoiding pump, the exact opposite of most sports. The way I look at it, strength is a general adaptation that can be applied specifically to any sport. Lastly, the gripping actions rock climbing uses are almost never used in other sports so you'll end up with capacity you can never use. Within the framework of ways that strength is specific, there are eight ways in which strength can produce targeted effects, as follows: (1) contraction mode (eccentric or concentric), (2) velocity, (3) joint angle of peak contraction or range of motion, (4) the number of reps, or the point on the strength-endurance continuum, (5) the degree of /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. That's been one of my biggest issues with climbing as almost every year I've been climbing I've had 2-3 week breaks here and there from traveling, vacations, and whatnot which have stalled my progress for longer periods of times. I started climbing about 10 months ago, got addicted and I feel like reached my first plateau. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. The average person probably never goes beyond 10% of their potential grip strength. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. My usual training for pull-ups are 3x12 with 2-3 minutes of rest in-between each set. Being highly deficient in one will eventually come back to bite you (although, to be fair, if you're going to be strong any any-- half crimp is likely the best to be strong at). Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. The optimal training load for the development of muscular power. Hand strength is pretty much exclusively trained by rock rings/fingerboards and actual climbing. Grip and finger strength is usually the limiting factor on easier problems. Strength training is a really useful tool for deliberate improvement, and it includes a lot more than just pullups, bench press and deadlifts. Reddit's rock climbing training community. If they exist, what is typical for say grades V6 -V11/12? I’m all on board the strength train when it comes to slopers: four and three fingers open hand, plus wrist, shoulder, chest, and upper back/lat strength. Strength Cond J. 120% BW max. Rock climbing fitness is 100% functional but 90% specific to rock climbing. Will be refined with additional data. g. (8) Haff GG, Nimphius S. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip It would help substantially in staving off the loss of finger strength by continually working the FDS and FDP muscles. And yes we are scared of falling. It’s not necessarily optimal nor necessary to progress, but you can’t guarantee that you naturally get sufficient stimulus in every major muscle group during a climbing session - so finishing off e. You can overcome it with strength and I bet you have the potential to go up multiple grades even at that weight. I also learned the key to good climbing is knowing how to get from point A to point B with as little effort as possible. That way I had Climbing is a skill sport more than a strength sport. So much of my technique up to that point had been about avoiding cruxy brutish moves using flexibility and long awkward betas that there was this whole other language of climbing that I had no idea how to tackle after gaining muscle. Others have suggested a system wall, and I would agree. About a min. 175% for 7C+. Besides doing hammer curls, weighted pull ups, and other strength exercises, spend some time climbing easier routes and hovering your hand over the next hold for a few seconds before grabbing it. Training Principles for Power. Don't do much basic strength training or conditioning. Can just about do 1-4-7 and hold a lock-off for around 10s. . finger strength ratio. If you want to help your body out, eat well, get enough rest, stretch after climbing, do antagonist training, and eat/drink something that has sugars and protein in it after climbing to aid recovery. 75 years—my climbing journey has been defined by a large gap between body/pulling strength and finger strength. I have a very different take on this. Front levers translate better - it's an isometric hold, and dragon flags are just an advanced core exercise. About a year ago, I began indoor bouldering (rock climbing) and coming from a swimming/lifting background my grip strength is severely lagging. (9) Kawamori N, Haff GG. Also there’s an endurance style walk at my climbing gym, you probably have the same, when the moves are numbered, 1-40, I took inspiration from somebody I saw there who did the route two, three or four times without coming off the wall, great way to increase finger strength and conditioning which I would recommend Most grip trainers are semi useless. Bouldering For Strength; Best Climbing Movies; Top Posts Reddit . 2012; 34(6):2-12. But the idea is that pure concentric/eccentric strength training would improve muscle mass/strength more relative to Generally new climbers benefit from learning how to climb and move which takes a lot of practice. Most fingerboard achievements by a lot of climbers vastly exceed what that climber will ever need to latch most holds on even the hardest climbs. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! Core strength allows you to hold your body position in ways that let you “lock off” to avoid movements that peel you off the wall such as barn dooring. But the model is better tuned for Sport climbing than for bouldering. It takes time and money to make it to a gym or outside, but most people can usually do some exercises for free sometime throughout their day. reReddit: Top posts of June 20 Climbing strength is so specific it's very hard to train for outside of a climbing wall. There’s a lot of technique in sloper climbing, but those same positions are often murder on your shoulders, so it helps to have good movement/mobility and strength in very wide positions. Strength Training Principles for A user shares their experience of combining Wendler's 5/3/1 program with climbing sessions. ylmemamsrayymodmrrcveigkyrnxluqfuzzitpmaneytqvtonkvrocespfokrqcirkpjvmkjjkiecebezykcdm