Dmm offsets review Designed for irregular, flared cracks and pin scars, the Dragonfly Micro Cam Offsets feature colour coded slings and thumb loops that allow you Feb 7, 2021 · Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. The color-coded aluminum swage keeps the wires parallel while allowing one wire to slide for more evenly loaded and secure placements. DMM is bringing an old favourite back to the market. The DMM offsets are only 5 nuts. But i remember comparing those 2 offset brands a second time b4 purchase & i was convinced that i liked DMM better. Due to their complex offset shape the DMM Alloy Offsets offer placement opportunities when nothing else will fit, making them a vital part of your rack. Customer Reviews for DMM Brass Offsets Not Yet Reviewed . I have never touched an offset piece of pro before. Guess it isn't super intuitive without knowing that info. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Moved Permanently. After buying dmm alloys and peanuts, I stopped carrying the regular set and have never looked back. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. He finds them lacking in one Jan 12, 2018 · Bottom line is that my offset nuts are the number one piece that I place early and then miss later on in the route--they fit easily into a shocking number of cracks, seat and conform to the rock (the alloy is softer than standard aluminum nuts), and usually feel more secure than other standard nuts. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. The high demand for these nuts is because their complex offset shape offers placement opportunities when nothing else will fit. And I really love them nuts. Kouba make the Vector wires in 5 sizes ranging from a rock / wallnut 4 through to a rock / wallnut 8, the same as DMM. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Feb 4, 2022 · DMM have evolved the celebrated Dragonfly Cam range to include the Dragonfly Offsets, which alongside the Dragon Cams create the ultimate cam family. Jan 27, 2018 · Also, the wild country ones are only offset on one side which only gives you two options for placing them as an offset, whereas the DMMs have 4 options because they are offset on all sides. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a I haven't used them, but here's a review someone posted on BD's website: Ahhh -- the subtleties of "passive" pro. Instantly I was Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Jun 15, 2012 · It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. With a 12kN strength rating, they are durable and lightweight, featuring recessed wires to reduce wear and weight-saving holes in larger sizes. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work r DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. In 1981 the company employed just 4 people and now thirty years later we are an important employer in this area with just over 150 men and women on Customer Reviews for DMM Peenut Set Read All (4) Most Recent Reviews. Regina June 30, 2020. Jan 7, 2019 · The Black Diamond Offset Micro is more expensive than most aluminum options, but they check out pretty much in line with, or slightly less expensive than, most other brass models. 9. Nov 9, 2020 · The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Irregular is better. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. Jun 15, 2012 · set of DMM offsets and think they are magic, and feel the walnuts would be just as good with the cutout down the middle. Oct 25, 2024 · The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the latest iteration of the original HB offset nut. Nov 23, 2021 · I often leave the regular Wallnuts on the ground. The cable kinks easily because it is fixed in the head, which combined with the offset design keeps the nut from rotating freely when yanked upward. BUY DMM Brass Offsets. The DMM Offset Nuts offer placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. The document has moved here. That tips me a bit toward the HB Offsets since they'd seem familiar and basically just extend the line down from the smallest alloys. Designed for irregular, flared cracks and pin scars, the Dragonfly Micro Cam Offsets feature colour coded slings and thumb loops that allow you to make the correct placement when it matters most. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. When I first saw these, I thought "Oh, a set of offsets to compete with the DMM offsets, cool". Coloured coding anodizing coating that matches the DMM wallnut range to make them easy to pick out when you are gripped on a pitch. 15 Positive, 0 Mixed & 0 Negative from 15 Reviews. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. com I'd always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. Great ultralight offset nuts harder than the standard set of DMM offsets, which means that Feb 6, 2018 · Certain granite areas are usually where offsets are king, i love my offset nuts and now carry mostly offsets with only a couple of my favorite sizes of regular nuts. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a I don’t think it’s objectively true that offsets have lower holding power, though. The Black Diamond Z4s are much lighter than X4s and Dragonflies. Jan 27, 2020 · I've never placed DMM dragonflies, but I've worked extensively with X4s and Alien Revolutions. When they were released, they were considered a niche piece, but now they're the gold standard of passive protection. Be the first to review Aug 13, 2022 · If you look up why the numbering is different for the offsets, it's because they also have a separate line of brass offsets that go from 1 to 6, so they wanted the alloy offsets to go up in size from where that set finishes, hence why they start at 7. Their burly cables are far tougher than those on DMM Brass Offsets and slightly tougher than those on Astro Nuts. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. Nov 4, 2012 · Last weekend I had the pleasure of placing DMM offset stoppers. If you only buy the offsets you will be lacking in very large (not the end of the world), and smaller sizes (definitely not ideal). -DMM's accurate heat treatment process optimises the physical property of the alloy to maximise bite. Other than what I can read in a book, any comments, tips or suggestions when using these pieces of pro in free climbing application only? Sep 30, 2011 · Hmm, that might be perfect for one of these new Black Diamond Offset Nuts I was carrying … If you don’t have offset nuts on your rack, you haven’t really lived. Should I get a set of walnuts? I have a set of DMM peanuts as well and find that they don't seem to fit that well in the rock I climb. If you cant decide between the two I would definitely go for the DMM offsets . Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Jan 4, 2019 · Mind you this was side by side visual comparison & i havent placed BD offsets & maybe because i was familiar with DMM looking offsets from using HB in the past i was more comfortable with that shape. Dislikes. Read DMM Alloy Offset reviews from experts, Reddit, and consumers all in one place. Since you have a regular set of stoppers, I would recommend the DMM alloy offsets since they give more placement options. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Offset nuts generally are an ideal addition to any rack, with the tapered design making them ideal for tapered cracks (common in the UK). Review DMM Offset Nut Review. DMM Alloy Offsets Reviews. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. In the grand scheme of reviews, it's clear that the DMM Alloy Offsets have won the hearts of many climbers. We have evolved the celebrated Dragonfly Cam range to include the Dragonfly Offsets, which alongside the Dragon Cams create the ultimate cam family. My 8, 9, and 10's are critical to my rack and if there were a Wallnut 10 and 11 size offset, I'd be doubling on those. I am all in with the Z4s for several reasons, although the Aliens are a close second. Value Nealy all the micro nuts we looked at were around the same price per nut Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. These offsets can find just the about anywhere to place with confidence. Protection - Nuts - DMM Alloy Offsets. I have a set of BD stoppers and find them ok. However, they do mix well with the DMM Brass Offsets, fitting some cracks that DMM Brass Offsets don't. But just how the DMM offsets fit where an awkward square cut nut would fit, the superlights sink in where a DMM offsets would be awkward. I don’t have the Halfnuts currently but I am considering them for the 1 placement of every 50 that won’t take an offset. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. Value While it's hard to call these cams affordable, the fact is that they are less than or the same price as every other small cam option, with the exception of our Best Buy Award Winner, the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams . These DMM Peenut offsets are great for free climbing as they are lightweight and easy to place. DMM Alloy Offsets for trad climbing Asymmetrical offset nuts for rock protection Durable alloy offset stoppers for climbers Lightweight offset nuts for thin cracks Color-coded DMM Alloy Offsets for easy use Grooved face design for secure placements Strong 12kN strength DMM offset nuts Ideal offset protection for various terrains Unique tapered design for challenging routes Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. Until you use them you don't think you need them, but once you have them, they never leave your side. The DMM Offset Nut Set 7-11 is a full set of the Offset range, which offers placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. Oct 9, 2015 · DMM's Alloy Offsets are the classic luxury item in climbing gear. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. Well, in actuality, the Black Diamond offsets are quite different and unique in several ways (see pictures). The DMM Wallnuts provide some of the offset functionality of the DMM Alloy offset, a curved nut that comes in slightly different shapes, with the added benefit of the wide range of sizes. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. Color: Assorted, Size: 1 - 5, Condition: New, Fabric/Material: Aluminium Alloy, That said, the offsets don't have a large enough size range. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Sometimes wonky is better. Related Searches. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Features Aug 8, 2022 · How customer reviews and ratings work Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Nov 17, 2011 · Founded in 1981 as Moor house Engineering in Bethesda, soon to become DMM and move to more suitable premises in Llanberis in 1986, the company celebrates 30 years of manufacturing this year in 2011. Dec 13, 2009 · Likes. Despite this, the vast majority agree that the DMM Alloy Offsets are a durable lot and can withstand considerable wear and tear. The offsets fit in such a huge variety of placements, it’s extremely rare that I find a placement for a standard nut that won’t take a DMM offset. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. They have a flexible cable stem and recessed cam spring design, and also have a narrow head design, which is optimal for shallow placements. The other clear option available when considering Offsets is, of course, the DMM Offsets which come in a set of 5 in the 7-11 sizes (slightly larger sizes than the Wild Country option). 10 Essential on my Rack Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Their asymmetrical taper ensures stable placements, while dual-orientation usability enhances versatility. out of 10. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Because off their ability to protect slightly flared cracks where nothing else seems to work, the DMM HB Brass Offset Set 0-6 has garnered a faithful following in the world of heady trad routes. The dmm nuts are just magic. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. Their heads are much more durable than the DMM Brass Offsets and about the same as the Metolius Astro Nut. If money isn't an Aug 12, 2024 · DMM also offers these in offset sizes, which are particularly useful for aid climbing. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Apr 13, 2025 · If the DMM alloy offsets came in a wider range of sizes, these would be our top pick. Features May 9, 2024 · Others have pointed out that the wires could be thicker for added endurance. DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. These are the most durable micro nuts in the review. I would say a nice compromise might be getting a partial set of smaller sized standard nuts and a full set of the offsets. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. Kouba's take on the much-loved offset wire, the Vector's are very similar in appearance to the DMM Offsets. Retail Price: $15. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. 9. The WC is more versatile but gives slightly less option in flare cracks, however with more sizes in the sets isn't bad. I now own a set of the Z4s and have placed them a few dozen times. com As great as DMM Wallnuts are, I tend to go for the offsets for every placement. The sizes compliment the standard DMM offsets nicely and DMM Alloy Offsets for Sale, Reviews, Deals and Guides. Cheers Jason Dec 17, 2022 · Check great and honest reviews! BUY DMM Peenut Set. Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “brassy” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Aug 9, 2020 · The DMM Alloy Offset is kind useless in parallel cracks but very good on tapered. 95 DMM Alloy Offsets Passive Protection user reviews : 0 out of 5 - 0 reviews - outdoorreview. I was converted several years ago when I checked out the new-at-the-time DMM Offsets, which were a reinvention of the popular, but out of production, HB’s. Dec 13, 2009 · Superlight Rocks are among the lightest nuts on the market and they have color-coded heads that match all other Wild Country and DMM units. For aid climbing, we wouldn't carry the Astro nuts exclusively. In my experience, offsets fit in every placement that a regular but fits, but the same isn’t true of the reverse. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a May 3, 2015 · I owned the DMM nuts first, and I do find a lot more bomber placements for them than the superlights. I went home and ordered the #7-#9 pieces. Grooved faces improve security on irregular Aug 8, 2022 · How customer reviews and ratings work Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. Alloy Offsets provide reliable protection in irregular and flared cracks where standard nuts fail. They are also the least expensive offset nut, and our review team thinks they're a screaming deal at half the cost of the DMM HB Brass Offsets. Due to an asymmetrical design the Alloy Offsets will fit in placements where standard nuts just don't feel right. But my local crag is granite and takes offets really well, when i climb in squamish which is also granite i dont' use the offsets as much. Mar 2, 2010 · They fit flaring pods and pin scars fairly well but not nearly as well as the DMM Brass offsets. khtj wrob apuzu onkjt wurzmw dmtuyh zssi yvkpon ahpe kcgwt lsexva rgwkrzm oxugdbz pqbagdah iuentw