French bouldering grades.

French bouldering grades A mistake often made is to combine the Australian & South African grades as the same, in fact they are about a grade apart and even more at the upper grades. Fontainebleau French. For example, the entry-level Font-grade 4 / V-grade V0 is equivalent to the free climbing grades of The grade of a rock route is usually based on the crux, the most difficult move. The French Rock Climbing Grade System The French ranking of outdoor, bolted, and sport climbing routes is the dominant climbing grading system to abide by. Simple pinch problems 5. Bouldering Grade Conversion. I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system as the gym has both and I’ve not checked if the high wall has a separate system. These bouldering grades differ from the grades used in traditional rock climbing, and use many different systems including: Huevo "V" grades-or the V-scale, Fontainebleau technical grades (Font-scale), route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. Conversion Chart: YSD vs. 4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b. They're the way climbers objectively measure the difficulty of different climbs. 12a) for a longer section, reflecting how that segment would feel when you’re fresh, right off the ground. a 5b+. Before we jump into the specifics of climbing grades, let’s first take a look at the three main types of climbing: bouldering, sport climbing, and traditional climbing. Bouldering Grades First up on ‘rock climbing grades explained’ is the French sport grading system. For example, a route with a high adjectival grade, but low numbered grade (within the scope of the adjectival grade), will be a safe route. Originating in France (funnily enough!), the number refers to the overall difficulty of the line - simply, the higher the number, the harder the route. UK French US Aust. The [2] [3] [38] Various authors have created tables to compare bouldering grades of Font/V-grade, to the free climbing French sport/American YDS grades, but because of the different types of climbing (and particularly the sequences of movements), they are only ever indicative and can vary by several levels between versions; [2] [4] [5] an example I go bouldering at a gym in Norway and this is their grading system. Boulder werden normalerweise nach ihren schwersten Stellen bewertet, wohingegen beim Routenklettern sowohl die Ausdauerkomponente als auch der Anspruch durch das Einhängen der Zwischensicherungen wie Expressschlingen, Klemmkeile oder Friends eine große Rolle spielen können. e. National Climbing Classification System (USA): NCCS grades, often called “commitment grades,” indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team. In the table below I have created a direct comparison for you to use. 15d). Most walls have signage explaining the system they use but don't hesitate to ask a member of staff if you're not sure. Climbing Mt. Nov 5, 2020 · Do you know why a something described as 'Very Difficult' is easier than something labelled 'E1'? Or why the grade E2 5a can elicit shudders whereas HVS 6a brings forth a rueful smile?!In order to understand UK trad grades, it’s useful to also understand the concept of the French grading system (usually used for sport and indoor climbing). The French Numerical System, also known as the French Sport Climbing Grade, is widely used in Europe and other parts of the world. However, they may differ between regions. French System: Apr 11, 2025 · Different walls sometimes use slightly different grading systems or variations on a system, but typically walls in the UK will use French sport grades for roped climbing and either Font or V-grades for bouldering. Before this, the kyuu grades goes up to 10, and represents easier climbs. 12b, whereas a 7B boulder equals V7, which is 5. 13-. The Font-grade system is easily confused with the French sport grade and the British E-grade systems as they use similar symbols, however, boulder grades are very different from free climbing grades and they start at much harder technical levels. For a brief explanation of traditional climbing grades follow this link. Bouldering and sport climbing are two related but different disciplines and therefore different grading scales have been created for each. All the easier bouldering in current BMC gritstone guides had a UK tech as well as a V grade as it was a joint trad and bouldering guide and at lower grades UK tech was better understood. After all, the same people are not climbing all the routes out there. This tool is particularly useful for climbers Our climbing grades convertors (both classic routes and boulders) have been made by great climbers, French grades: France, Spain, Switzerland Climbing grades provide guidance, suggesting the length of time an experienced climber might take to complete the route: Grade I: A couple of hours; Grade II: Closer to four hours; Grade III: Four to six hours (most of the day) Grade IV: One very long day; Grade V: Two days (requires an overnight stay) Grade VI: Two-plus days (In theory the bouldering grades have upper-case letters, and the route grades have lower-case letters, which the Rock Climbing table gets wrong). There are currently over 300 climbs rated somewhere in the 5. Traditional and winter grades can also help provide insight about the style and seriousness Apr 27, 2025 · There are several rock climbing grade systems, each with their own history and regional use, but the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and the French scale are the two grading systems used most. I. a 7b route is around 5. The YDS scale takes into account the technical difficulty of the climbing route, as well as the overall challenge and risk level. The first climber to complete a route assigns a grade, which can change as more people make the ascent and come to a consensus. The first recorded climbing grade system was introduced by the Austrian mountaineer Fritz Benesch in 1894. , 5. The Fontainebleau (French Scale) The Fontainebleau Scale is one of the oldest and most respected grading systems for bouldering and is primarily used in Europe. 5. However, over time, it became clear that Gill’s grading system was incapable of defining accurate grades for the complexity of boulders being climbed. In the 1950s, legendary godfather of American bouldering, John Gill, was grading boulders on a super simple scale ascending from B1 to B3. g. Dec 9, 2024 · Let's talk about climbing grades. Mar 24, 2022 · The V-grades and French Fontainebleau grades that are today’s gold standards took time to disseminate, with other scales proposed along the way. It remains today a prime climbing location. It has been adapted from martial arts, and 1 kyuu is seen as the baseline for boulderers – equivalent to V5/6. 15d (9c). He walks you through indoor bouldering grades and discusses some of the common disagreements among climbers when it comes to climbing grades. Sport Climbing Grades Two graded climbing routes at an American climbing gym. Feb 6, 2016 · The French climbing grades system is numerical, starting at 1, and each grade is subdivided with letters e. This system assigns numerical values to climbing routes, ranging from 3 to 9c, with higher numbers indicating greater difficulty. It isn’t too helpful to compare across scales, but it The above appears courtesy of the American Alpine Journal. 5b 5a 4c 4b 4a 3c 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 35 XI-XI XIa XIb XIc XIIa XIIb II II I I 11 10 5. Feb 4, 2015 · Sometimes the conditions and the state of the routes can also influence the grades. The French simplified the rating system by starting at 1 and working their way up in difficulty—1 being the easiest. The most commonly used grading systems for sport climbing include the French (e. Although bolted sport climbs tend to be given a single French grade, traditional climbs in Britain are graded using two figures, an adjectival and a technical grade. Mar 17, 2023 · A 4 bouldering grade in font converts to a V0 in the Hueco Grading System. Climbing Styles found in grade for USA V5. Oct 23, 2023 · The Bouldering V Scale. 10, 5. A 5+ (sometimes graded as 5b or 5c) can be converted into a V2 bouldering grade on the V-scale. It is very difficult to compare the bouldering grading systems to the route grading Jun 8, 2020 · On one hand, sport climbing grades provide a scale of difficulty which enables relatively easy comparison. How can something be both objective and subjective? It's a bit of a paradox, but we'll unravel it. May 31, 2020 · The Nose on El Capitan is 5. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco “V” grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, and more. The French sport system gives each route a difficulty grade consisting of a number between 1-9 (although technically it is open Feb 26, 2021 · French sport grades. Oct 13, 2019 · At the moment V grades are used in quite a few guidebooks and in most of the biggest indoor venues (especially The Depots). 15 range, all of which are impressively high climbing grades. 9 C2, Grade VI. But here's the twist-they're also subjective. You’re most likely to come across it at climbing walls (including our own), but it’s also used for bolted outdoor sport climbs. YDS USA French Ewbanks Australia/NZ UIAA South Africa British UK; 3rd: 1-1: I: 1: There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. 2 kyuu is a V4, and 7 kyuu is a V0 for example. However, UK traditional or ‘trad’ as well as winter climbing grades offer more information about a climb than simply how hard the climbing is. YDS and French grades don’t always line up precisely, but below is a comparison chart showing how they compare. Introduction to dynamic movements 2. Typically written as a number followed by a letter (e. Understanding these nuances is key for climbers transitioning between Grade II: Half a day of technical climbing; Grade III: Most of the day will be required for the technical portion of the route. Bouldering Grades - Comparison Table Oct 12, 2020 · What is the Highest Climbing Grade? The highest climbing grade, as of February 2020, is a 5. S. [27]". Please visit them on the web at www. Converting climbing grades such as French 6c+ to the V scale can be a challenge. If you already feel confident in your knowledge of Because bouldering grades do not take into account the height and risk of injury, to see a trad grade too will instantly tell you it’s a high enough problem to be classified as a micro-route. Climbing Grades vs. It differs from the USA system in that a route that is difficult to protect will get a higher grade. Standards vary among climbing areas. The number is increased when a “harder” climb is developed. Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style. Yet I hope this bouldering grades conversion table will help you get a little grasp on this difficult subject. Our secret (or maybe not so secret anymore) tip for your hands after climbing: Jun 5, 2023 · Indoor climbing grades tend to follow the same grading system as the country that gym is it. In this case, the route might settle at French 8a/+. South African rock climbing grades are very similar to Australian, with the exception that the upper end of the scale is currently at 41. Great Britain – The UK system is made of two sub-grades, an adjective grade and a technical grade. I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of… Read More »Climbing Grade For example, a 5c UK Trad grade is closer matched to a 6b French. Sometimes a + symbol is also added to show a route that’s slightly harder than it’s grade but not tough enough for the next grade up e. Jun 10, 2024 · Bouldering and Lead Climbing Grade converters and other tools for rock climbers. French Grades. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least with a difficulty of 5. One has a grade of 5. They are for grading sport climbs and traditional climbing, but we will also cover the bouldering grades V-scale and French (Font). 12b, the other a grade of 5. Sport climbing and bouldering are two disciplines of climbing that are relatively close, and therefore grade comparisons hold a fairly solid meaning. For example, if you go to the gym in the UK, most of Europe and Asia, you’ll find French climbing grades. Moves on to rock climbing grades. 0 to 5. 7. Aug 24, 2023 · So let’s dive in and unravel the mystery of climbing grades! Types of Climbing Grades. At the lower levels, there is much crossover between grades and makes it more difficult to translate, but the higher the grade is the easier it is to compare. an Much like the French sport climbing grading system, the Font scale designates grades using a numeral (3 to 9), a letter (A to C) and - or + symbol. The V scale was developed in the USA and is a system that currently starts with VB for the simplest bouldering problems and goes all the way up to V17 for super experienced professionals. These ranking systems, often referred to as grading systems, provide a standardized way to evaluate the challenge a route Sport climbing and bouldering are two disciplines of climbing that are relatively close, and therefore grade comparisons hold a fairly solid meaning. There’s no standard practice to guide how this comparison should be made. It is the biggest and most developed bouldering area in the world, [ citation needed ] and is where the Fontainebleau grading system originated. Invented in France, and adopted for its simplicity, it spread to become the most widely used grading scale for sport rock climbing routes. A good awareness of both scales means that boulder grades can be used to define the crux difficulty of a longer sport route, and sport grades can be estimated for longer boulder problems i. an French alpine climbers practiced bouldering there since the 19th century. Adjectival and Numbered Grades Combined. - Jenna attempts a 6b route, finding it challenging but doable after several tries. Bouldering Grades Feb 26, 2021 · French sport grades. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. Since grades are a reflection of what people care about, a grade of 50 can indicate something different in one location versus another. However, you will find that most indoor rock climbing levels use the French sport climbing grades. Rock Climbing Grades: Rock climbing grades typically use one of several grading systems, with the most common being the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) in the United States and the French numerical system (French grades) in Europe. Jun 5, 2023 · TOP TIP: If you get confused between the French sport climbing grades and the Font-Scale, remember that the Font-Scale always used capitalized letters while the sport grades use small letters eg 6A = bouldering and 6a = sport climbing. Sports climbing grades are graded using different systems across different regions. 3 Bouldering Traditional Routes UK Grades Dec 28, 2021 · The above route has a distinct crux: Font 7B climbing is solidly harder than anything you would find on a route graded French 7c. Now let us see how bouldering grades compare. The two grades can then be used together to understand how bold or safe a route will feel. 7 (or the equivalent snow/alpine grade) Grade V: The route will likely require an overnight stay in the middle of the technical portion. 9. Basic crimpy routes 3. Apr 10, 2025 · Difficult and committing scrambling with some moves more akin to technical rock climbing in exposed positions. A 5 Font bouldering grade converts to a V1 in the v scale. Technical rock climbing requiring the full use of climbing equipment. In fact, it was John Gill’s B-system, advanced over a half-century ago as Gill devoted himself almost exclusively to bouldering, that set the stage for today’s popular, open-ended V-system. The French grade is used to rate the difficulty of climbing routes, primarily for sport climbing. The best way to approach the conversion is to travel, go climbing and get used to the different grades! Have fun! P. So the french boulder grades are harder than the french route grades. Top-rope climbing grades are used for routes where the climber is securely attached to a rope that runs Dec 9, 2024 · Kann ich Boulder-Schwierigkeitsgrade aufs Klettern übertragen? Die Antwort lautet: Nur bedingt. , 6a, 7c+). Denali via the Cassin Ridge route is 5. - Marco climbs a 7a, enjoying the mix of technical moves and endurance. Bridging the Gap. A brief history of climbing grades. americanalpineclub. The Old SA grading was used in many of the older traditional climbing areas but is seldom used today. Bouldering: 1. Each section is assigned a grade, either a V-grade for a crux or a YDS grade (e. 11) and the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System) grades. Font emphasizes the overall bouldering challenge, while the French system, applicable to both bouldering and sport climbing, often focuses on the hardest move. 1. Which means you could still boulder it, but you either need enough pads and spotters to reduce the risk of injury from a fall, or treat it more like a Jan 6, 2024 · Holistic in sport climbing, focusing on sustained difficulty, technicality, and mental endurance. No, we're not trying to seem all intellectual (okay, maybe a little bit Apr 13, 2025 · Climbing Difficulty Ranking IntroductionClimbing is a sport of precision, strength, and mental endurance. This lead climbing grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from YDS to French and back to French to Yosemite. 8 WI4, Grade V. Basic pocket problems These climbing styles are essential for boulder Intermediate climbers navigating Bouldering Grade V5 and facing challenging bouldering difficulty. Grades are subjective. Jan 28, 2022 · Australian Climbing Grades. "Although fundamental differences in climbing style make direct comparison between bouldering and route climbing difficult, the colors in the above and below tables correspond to roughly equivalent sets of grades. In the UK and most of continental Europe, you’ll find the French scale in climbing walls and outdoor sport. The sub-grade ranges from 1 to a theoretically infinite number (today the highest number is 15). The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. What do these grades translate to in V-grade and British system? Apr 27, 2025 · Common Pitfalls in Grade Conversion. Sep 28, 2021 · As a result, climbing grades are usually pretty uniformly applied in a single region. There are no letters or secondary grades, just a single number that gets bigger as the routes get harder. 6a to V-scale Aug 18, 2017 · The French Scale, or the Fontainebleau Scale, is widely used around the world and is most commonly seen outside of America. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing. Jun 23, 2024 · Top-rope climbing grades are indicated by the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) scale, ranging from 5. UIAA German adj. 🧗‍♂️ Sports Climbing Grade Converter Convert from French to Yosemite Decimal System and more. The Australian climbing grade scale for technical scrambling and rock routes, another open-ended rating system, runs from 1 (~YDS 3) to 39 (5. We also have a Grades comparison table for converting between different grading system used around the world. It is named after a famous outdoor bouldering area called Fontainebleau in France, just outside Paris. In fact, the only difference between the two systems is that the sport grades are written with a lowercase letter, and the Font grades are written with a uppercase letter. Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. Apr 29, 2024 · Not to be confused with the Fontainebleau scale for bouldering, the French system is the most common free climbing rating scale outside of North America. Differences with Sport climbing grades. Rock Climbing vs. 5 (font) to V-scale. Rock Climbs. When using bouldering grades, it really is only used in this country. Yes, we know the definitions of subjective and objective. . org. A bold route with easy climbing, may get the same grade as a much harder sport route, so the grade isn’t very versatile. Whether you're scaling indoor walls or conquering outdoor crags, understanding the intricacies of climbing difficulty rankings is essential for progression and safety. It is a route called Silence and has only been climbed once, by Adam Ondra. Jan 31, 2025 · The system then calculates a total grade based on these inputs, minimizing the biases found in traditional grading methods. Basic technical face climbing 4. Therefore, the climber grading the route must reconcile the hard crux with the otherwise more moderate climbing to land on a French grade that makes sense. Sep 16, 2021 · Bouldering Grades vs. International Climbing Grade Comparison Chart. 15. Most people would choose to use a rope and other climbing equipment. zyobab afnht yiiwfb edd cptdf oiyf plyntlgqp mxswepc sczn uskzq vxneppw thbjlk ljiyh lcgjhd wpqkjp