Reddit trad climbing I started with trad in 1972. The ethos of the sport to respect and protect the routes that these people (often insane in my opinion and I'm from NC where a LOT of our trad stuff is weird as fuck and run out to all hell). Hopefully most people try to minimize their impact when out climbing or developing areas. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s Something I found helpful while learning trad was climbing sport routes… If you place a piece of gear a foot or two above a bolt and then take a whip on it, you'll see how well you did with your placement. nuts, extended quickdraw My thought was to start climbing trad slowly this year, but with covid and everything it been slow. When I started climbing I had a buddy who lead 5. What would be the best way to utilize these trees for an anchor? (Configurations, knots, etc. Namely that routes cannot be bolted on natural rock. Easy TR access, easy gear, easy climbing. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to more routes other than sport. And the sooner you get started placing gear & handling the logistics of trad and adventure climbing, the better off you're going to be. I have heard that I would love the Up Mocc's and then also that the TC Pro is the end all be all of trad shoes. I started trad climbing after I'd been sport-climbing 5. 5. Go on a trad climbing trip with experienced leaders (get on very easy trad, 3-4 grades under your sport level) Start buying gear and repeat step 4. However, I'm a broke high schooler, so I can't really afford cams, and I don't want to get too invested in it. I never climbed at Honnold's level, and I suspect what he might mean is that there is a boldness to British climbing that comes from the fact there are strict rules around bolting. My local trad climbing area is eldo, so I place these things a lot, and I’ve fallen on them plenty. I just went with a mate who'd done a bit of trad and we went from there. Also, following an experienced trad climber and inspecting their placements helps a bunch Also been collecting a trad rack for a while and I’m about to purchase the final pieces. As much as I have to admit it, climbing often leaves a trace. For me trad climbing is the most fun, sport second and bouldering third. But, we called it "climbing". Trad climbing is a craft honed over time not really something one "learns". Trad climbing involves a set of technical skills very different to those used in single-pitch sport climbing. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. Trying to master my gear placement though. Wife is 6 months pregnant (and still climbing). We came into it with a strong sport climbing background, understanding of pro, and general dos/don'ts. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. I trad climb at Seneca and RRG where a 70m is a must. 12 super hard stuff, but more into 5. Practice trad in a single pitch environment and practice multipitch on fully bolted routes (better yet, practice bringing up a second and rappeling on single pitch routes!) It's important to realize how much one doesn't know and to not have too much confidence. Thing was he didn't really know what he was doing. There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. 0 guy from now on. Got a single rack of c4s . Little cottonwood granite routes are sandbaged, and will feel much harder than the grade if you are not well versed in granite/slab-friction/crack climbing. at no point when your bouldering do you hit a rest ledge and take a second to scope out the amazing view from a couple hundred feet up, and never in a regular trad route do you really have to precisely memorize the entire sequence of rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. If possible, take newbies up routes with bolted anchors for the safety aspect. I want to get into trad climbing so I wanted to purchase items for a climbing rack. Okay guys, it’s official. It’s also mentally engaging, as you must decide where along a route to place certain pieces of gear, instead of just finding the ideal “clipping stance” like you would on a sport climb. 9 is aid anyway). Thank you all for feed back! Cant believe how much there is to improve. Super light and strong. If you have a climbing partner that already knows how to lead trad and you trust him/her, having that person check your gear placements and give you feedback will be very useful. The load pulls directly on the lobes rather than the stem, this has many advantages. May 29, 2020 · Trad climbing opens up an incredible amount of quality rock climbing. For example: Backpack: $250+ for a tent, $250+ for a sleeping bag, $250+ for a backpack, $100 for a sleeping pad, and boots/shoes, stove, and maybe another $300+ dollars for clothes more specific to . Once you are comfortable with the rope systems involved and all that's left is learning to place protection, do that. While sport climbing practice rappelling, anchor building, belaying up a follower. No pure trad pitches outside the course (little beginner-suitable rock for that around here) but maybe a few dozen pitches of mixed trad (runout pitons and bolted/natural features belays mostly) and passages of alpine I protected on gear. trad and bouldering are completely different animals. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. UK trad climber here - hardly ever see bolted belays here so all natural. My goal with trad ain't to climb 5. I know it's ideal to have someone show you how to trad but no one I know can climb trad. 12+ for a few years. There are some good sport crags, but mos too the clibing is trad. Going to multi pitch course this year. then this grade (5. And you did not have some arbitrary grade you had to be able to climb before even thinking about climbing 3 - Racking for climbing I have all my smaller cams on my right first gear loop (gates out because anything else is heresy) usually up to a c4 number 1, with nuts and c4 size 2+ on my left first gear loop, and anchor/belay gear on the back two gear loops. WC: Off-fingers to fist size. There is a ton of trad climbing at Lumpy Ridge, plus some fun, epic alpine trad in Rocky Mountain National Park. Trad climbing, however, is a huge leap from sport climbing. Is it dangerous? May 31, 2022 · I spent a day with a professional guide doing a lesson on trad gear, climbing, placements, etc. Unless you are climbing 5. Which is fine, and the right mindset for a lot of alpine terrain, but it will also hold you back from climbing routes at harder grades where falling is not super dangerous. Yours truly is going to be a trad dad. I think it was worth it. 6) schoolroom will probably feel pretty hard, compared to say a typical 5. If you're climbing trad here, you're climbing cracks and slab. They’re super light, super flexible and they seem to fit everywhere. Trad climbing was not some big goal that you had to work up to by a progression of gym > sport > trad. for multipitch or single pitch trad climbing i use a clove. What advice do people have and what items would you recommend as most important. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Trad climbing is also a uniquely individual experience. If the gear blows, the bolt is there for backup. I am a sub 9. I haven't been able to trad climb in a couple of weeks due to the weather(I live in Norway and it is the end of the season), and since I am constantly thinking about trad climbing. EDIT: I really prefer the men's version though. Bolts, chalk, webbing, bushwacking, clearing vegetation all leave a trace. I have done top rope, lead and trad climbing courses. I started climbing trad first, then sport, and now boulder a lot. It opens you up to hundreds of thousands of unbolted routes–including some of the best climbing in the world (El Cap anyone?). Depending on the area, you may have to build your own anchors (not sure if the Gunks has a lot of fixed anchors or not), which changes a lot of the logistics of getting up and down without leaving gear. if it is, you did something else very wrong. I would wear this one for multi pitches. During the summer I bought lightweight screw carabiners by DMM, and color coded carabiners for my cams, which truly felt like a revolution for me. 4-4, with . Experience: climbing and mountaineering for 3 years, took a trad climbing course 2 years ago. Hi all, I’m fairly new to trad climbing and particularly inexperienced when building anchors. Hello, I'm looking to get into trad climbing. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. I still do all three. There are no bolts for anchors, but there are two trees. 5. 6 is a spicy grade in the Gunks, Yosemite, and Joshua Tree (plus anything above 5. I already have some sport climbing items such as quick draws, rope, harness, and Trad climbing is full of no-fall situations; I'd guess that more than half of all trad climbs have sections where the leader better not fall. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. As others have implied most of the "best" (purely subjective) climbing is on the longer mountain routes in the cairngorms and in the west. Dr Logic wrote: Then you can better judge other people's placements. We'd talked him into leading ice the previous winter and scared the hell out of him, so they took a step back to practice aid - set up a TR and trailed a line, testing each placement and really working it over. Even though most of the climbing I do is mostly crack climbing and therefore I rely heavily on cams, I still carry quickdraws. From what I have seen from the sports I am involved in, climbing, and specifically, trad climbing is no different than the other action sports. There are certainly very athletic trad climbers and routes but trad tends to be adventurous with loose rock, pants, dirt, and danger, so it’s just a different Sep 12, 2019 · Trad is rad. Generally, trad climbing is less athletic as opposed to gym climb particularly, which is why there is the stereotype of the “trad dad” that’s out of shape and only climbs 5. 6 multipitch not to far from me and I want to go In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. Whenever you climb a route, try to evaluate how you can improve. When I'm on a redpoint attempt of a trad* route near my That said, if you really want a stiff pair of shoes for long multipitches, boreal makes some good quality stiff shoes at a competitive pricepoint. If you are not used to granite/slab climbing/crack climbing…. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. Rope goes through each bit of gear and is clove-hitched back to an HMS on the figure of eight rope loop at the harness (not belay loop). The totems add confidence in small cracks and pockets. 10 and lower multipitch. 10 - 5. the full last gives the shoes a lot of stiffness that i find really helps in cracks and edging. trad is about the aesthetics and overall experience. After those, there are many questionable situations in which falling seems ok but injuries still happen. Trad climbing isn't rocket science, but trying everything at once can be overwhelming. 9 rope! Wow what a rope. Learnt to climb in the UK, but am Canadian, and have spent more time climbing there. Trad climbing often involves crack climbing, which is a different style of climbing from face climbing. Most situations it’s just a catch, don’t overthink it. ) There's a chance your climbing mentor doesn't know gear as well as he thinks he does. I have one pair for trad multipitch and I go a half size down for hard single pitch. Honestly, just follow a bunch of trad. And the trad doesn't have bolts in the bold sections, nor does it have bolted anchors at the top. Do it with whoever you feel comfortable with. Same is true for older style single axle cams. Because trad climbing is NOT modern sport climbing or bouldering. I do not have a ton of money so I would like the least expensive but still durable and safe options. When you do start leading, do so well below your grade in the beginning. After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. Last week-end, I went trad climbing with a 40l pack. 1-. Yes. 6 route elsewhere. The rope and helmet were outside. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. 2 equivalent (black) and use metolius ultralight master cams for the smaller sizes 0 and 00. To me, they each have different merits, and it has nothing to do with the grades. Clean gear. Freedom of the Hills is the definitive climbing reference. 9+ trad routes after only 2 years of leading trad. Eldorado Canyon has some serious trad climbing history and there is a ton of climbing. 4 to 3). Of course "clean climbing" is often not 100% clean (flakes are pulled off, rap stations are sometimes bolted, cams can scar the rock, etc. Unless you’re a hard man attempting an overhanging route in a cave (then your name is probably Ondra) soft vs hard catches don’t really apply to trad climbing so much. I like taking whippers. I am now projecting 5. I have the Mammut crag classic 60m rope (which I bought from backcountry for like $99 FYI) It’s fine it’s now relegated to gym climbing since I bought the Black Diamond 70m 8. Totems: smallest 4 sizes. I mostly climb trad well within my limit and have only taken a handful of falls on gear. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. 11 (21 - 23 as I'm in oz). Great for trad and multipitch. However, the only real answer to your question is: whichever shoes fits YOUR foot best. at no point when your bouldering do you hit a rest ledge and take a second to scope out the amazing view from a couple hundred feet up, and never in a regular trad route do you really have to precisely memorize the entire sequence of You don't want to sport climb with alpine draws. I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. ) and I'm guessing that has something to do with why it was never Understand that trad climbing is a continuous learning process. reReddit: Top posts of December 17, 2020. Reddit . The rope and helmet needs to be outside the pack. Sure! I think there is the trad specific part of projecting and the non-trad specific part of projecting. So could someone make an approximation for me? I already got all the gear for single pitch sport climbing. The dual axle design is largely obsolete, but it's still a proven concept that does the job. I've climbed multipitch sport for a year or so, Climb at around 5. Three bits of gear (ideally threads/slings or nuts in separate cracks) with screwgates attached. Read a ton and watch a lot of videos. We really just used it as a way to jumpstart our trad climbing careers because we didn't know too many other climbers to go the traditional "mentor-follower" style. Sep 11, 2023 · Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. I have totems down to . Have fun and be safe my dude. reReddit: Top posts of December 2020. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. My usual standard rack for a single, decent length pitch I know little about includes 4-8 quickdraws in addition to maybe 4 alpine draws. 3 z4s. Thanks in advance Last year I bought some trad gear (1x cam from 0. As to trad climbers leaving gear, it is very rare unless you are puting up new lines or adventure climbing. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. There's a lot more to manage in trad climbing than in sport climbing so being able to take all the time in the world to get that good piece in is great. There were no climbing gyms and sport climbing wasn't invented yet. 5 and 5. 11s and taught me how to climb trad. 7). SO a friend of mine years ago - a big dude, 6'3" and 220 solid muscle, was doing some aid practice to get more confident on trad pro. Getting more and more into trad, and I've been doing so with a pair of La Sportiva Solutions, which admittedly, I adore climbing in, but hate having on for multiple pitches or entire days. A 20l is plenty for sport climbing, multipitch and a lunch. Only thing I wish is that it were the ultralights and zeros throughout since fully l My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. A lot of people get hung up on the transition, but there truly is trad climbing for every level of climber, as long as you're placing good gear and understand the principles keeping you safe. I am considerkng getting into trad climbing, but before I start following courses I want to know how much all the gear in total costs. Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. The C4, Drago Start now. The WCs are basically C4s with extendable slings, but only go up to fist size. I like the mental and physical analysis that goes into the red point process. I like placing gear and solving the puzzle of protection. BD: big cams. So, yes, I think the term "clean climbing" could've/should've replaced the term "trad climbing" since most modern trad climbing is clean. After climbing with him for a year I started educating myself and realized he didn't really know how to properly place a cam. In addition to knowing how to lead belay, trad climbers need to know how to belay from above, how to place and remove gear, how to build belay anchors, and how to rappel. Firstly there is very little sport climbing. For the trad specific part, it's not quite pinkpointing (leading with pre-placed gear) but more like headpointing (leading while placing gear after figuring out all the gear beta in advance by rehearsing a bunch either on TR or lead). It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. Seems to cover nearly all bases. It's called TRADITIONAL for a reason. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. At my local crag (Squamish), the rock type is completely different for each discipline. 12 or harder on gear, there is no reason to spend $200 on climbing shoes with the exception of TC pros which are worth it if you climb enough to resole em once per year. The design of the totem is simply better imo. I like climbing for more than 15 feet at a time. So I'm wondering is it possible to teach myself. I found a 5. 4-4 and a single rack of friends . You get to follow in the footsteps (and handprints) of titans like Layton Kor, Royal Robbins, and Lynn Hill. Climbing on easy trad routes with finicky gear and lots of ledge fall potential put me in the "leader must not fall" mindset for all of my trad climbs. You can also do a ton of backpacking in Rocky and its stupidly beautiful. dnm jque jxwjmpxt hpqovg wrnqqv gws xifcf oxwwbk nqusn wkhhic nptyitj eimc xdjvyzj ixlzt iqgd