Quad anchor length reddit. 3M subscribers in the climbing community.

Quad anchor length reddit There are bomber looking trees in the back of your photo. 8 or a quad anchor if its bolted. Tests published in the long/gaines climbing anchors book demonstrate how statically equalized anchors like the one you . i use this one as a “normal” 2 or 3 piece anchor In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. Get some pear shape carabiners to clip the climbing rope to the anchor. Edit: Can the anonymous AMGA Safety Captains explain the votes? Edit 2: This is if there is no sharp rock in the vicinity, and I use newer gear. Main complaints: I want another key clip in the top mesh pocket because that's where I want my keys. Ideally, I'd use a double length nylon for a top rope anchor, sliding X, with a masterpoint knot. For a lot of folks, learning how to build basic anchors off of installed anchor hardware comes first (eg quad, master point), as well as learning how to equalize two trees with a static line. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. It's a great skill to have, you control the quality and length, and in the long run each cable you make is far cheaper than the cost of buying one. When I made this same exact decision, I went with a 240cm dyneema sling. The document has moved here. Suspect lockers are bad anchor lockers unless you're belaying at the anchor. In most cases, unless the direction of load is exactly beneath the power point (which it almost never is), fall force is almost entirely on a single piece of the anchor, greatly increasing the likelihood of that piece blowing. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Usually when I have seen the quad recommended as a single pitch top-rope anchor, it is because it is being used in a commercial, high-wear context. The included angle of your anchor is what makes it stronger or weaker not the length of the cord. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. I am wondering what length you all use so I can know if I should cut the cord or leave it in tact. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. And yes we are scared of falling. You can use the quad anchor to set up a top rope. You MIGHT run into odd scenarios where you can't use the quad just because of positioning or whatever. I made my quad from 7mm and it works really well. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. This is useful if you want to top rope two different routes which are immediately next to each other, but share the same anchor. Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. This is assuming 2 bolts for the anchor. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Or you could just have a doubled runner, rap device in the middle on an overhand on a bight, clip the end to the anchor. "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use Moved Permanently. The climber uses a clove hitch on a single locker to anchor himself, and non locking biners for the anchors itself. I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. it's dangerous. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). If you're just First of all, it adds clutter to your anchor system. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. See full list on climbing. So while risk is minimal for just using two draws (my typical go to for lead), it is better practice to use something else like a master point or quad anchor to set up your anchor. A single strand of dyneema sling is rated to 22kn, which is far stronger than any anchor needs to be, but dyneema strands can be cut by sharp rock. Better to have an anchor that's a little big than not have enough material. As for the anchor you will need something to use as an anchor. Having said all that, the anchor is the one place you've got full redundancy, so only worrying about wear on the anchor draws seems kinda silly. I bought 2 d shaped lockers for the bolts and 2 hms lockers for the rope side. It does not need to be the same diameter as climbing rope as it’s used for something different. Set up rap, clip end back to belay loop, get to next anchor, clip back to anchor. It's clear, takes up no space, and if you are into a quad or any other equalized anchor then you are using the full anchor without having the clutter of loops dangling everywhere. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I typically use double slings too, but use a munter + locker at the master point to reduce the amount of material needed. The home of Climbing on reddit. A static length is still super strong but is not designed to be shock loaded. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really "shock loading" the anchor. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. The quad will self-equalize for both of them without needing any adjustment. The quad can be prebuilt on the ground, and then easily connected, it extremely durable to wear, and is miles beyond bomber so it's considered essentially fail-proof. From what you said about the top rope bolt placements, you'll also need like at least a 5m sling or 10m of cord or static rope. If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). com To make a quad anchor: Take your cordellete and double it up so you have four equal-length strands. The direction of pull on an anchor is off-axis when it is not straight on – that is when it doesn’t distribute a load equally to the primary anchors in a system. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. given the same sling/cordellette length, it's twice as long as the quad, alleviate rope drag and crossing over ledges the twist makes it more redundant than a pure equalette, almost as much as a quad it's less fussy to set up when the two carabiners are always in the same place, vs a quad or equalette where the biners slide kinda willy nilly Normal loadout: 70m rope in tarp loosely flaked, puffy, quad anchor, 20 draws, 2 pairs of shoes, harness, book, food, helmet, stick clip, 2 headlamps, tape, and whatever random stuff ends up in my pack between monthly cleanouts. Say a girder/support beam had a base with eight holes for anchoring, and only like one bolt per beam would really be needed for strength, but the others would be used f It's the old adage about giving a man a fish, or teaching a man to fish. It's no longer suggested to have a third hand off a leg loop, so you really want to have an extended rappel, no nicer system than the humble Usually just do 3 piece (4 if you count upward pull piece) with a fig. It's better to understand the whys of anchor building rather than the hows. Overhand masterpoint or an equalette are both good solutions. For placements this far apart, you want quad length or longer cordelette to reduce the angle spanned between the widest piece and minimize multiplying the forces in the load direction. There's a reason guides almost always use quads with bolted anchors: they're incredibly bomber at good bolted anchors and will handle the failure of one of the bolts reasonably well. 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. We’ll start with the quad as it offers better load distribution than the traditional I would recommend building the quad, it’s my go to top rope anchor. You'll probably want four locking biners for the anchor, and then a fifth locking biner for your belay device. Once you’ve placed your primary anchors, the next step is to combine them with a sling or cord. Given the worst-case scenario for each anchor type (partial anchor failure resulting in extension for Sliding X, off-axis loading resulting in zippering of pieces in a Cordelette), as well as identical theoretical anchors and forces for each comparable setup, which is stronger? Someone good with physics, and a little free time, should be able An anchor builder should always strive to build an anchor that will be loaded on-axis when the belayer or climber weights the anchor. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. The quad uses up an awful lot of cord unnecessarily so simply tying another type of anchor will allow you to extend it easily. 1. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. As MW3 transitioned from the top of the cliff to the next lower ledge, MW3 felt a shift in the anchor, and asked the MA if the system was Mountain Climbing Mishap, 8 October 2019 10 still secured (Tab R-53 and R-76). Obviously if you anticipate just needing one patch cable, buying one might be cheaper, but a brand name patch cable can cost a significant percentage of the cost of termination tools. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. There's a community for whatever you're interested in on Reddit. If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be the quad than a more complicated anchor that requires good judgment to safely execute. Here you go, an Amga video demonstrating a quad anchor. By tying load limiter knots into the quad, at least 2 parts of the sling would need to simultaneously fail for the anchor to fail. Just climbed with a guy who clove hitched a… Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. A place for discussion, debate, and inspiration regarding traditional climbing, often referred to as… Yes. I find it pretty easy to quickly whip up an anchor to fit the situation and gives me an excuse to hang around at the top of a route checking out the view! Jul 11, 2016 · The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. It’s not the anchor I would choose, but it’ll work just fine. Plenty of resources out there on the YouTube to explain it better than I can here but the only reason length would matter is if your cord was too short to build an anchor with and that created force multiplying angles. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. The other issue is… style points. I have a 30 meter cord and I am planning to set up a trad anchor for some top rope soon. Clip a locking carabiner into both strands of the loop end nearest to the double fisherman's bend. Skip to main content. I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. 625 feet. Think about how clean the line is from your rope to a simple clove. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. Master points and quad anchors do a much better job as spreading the load and are more secure due to the lockers. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments 396 votes, 207 comments. Anything more is waste of time if you ask me, or more importantly, if you ask the Amga. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find some 6 or 7mm. Also they’re not as secure since they don’t lock. -1 quad length dyneema sling - pre-tied as a quad (adjust as needed for your anchor) -1 triple length dyneema sling. ;-) There is no ideal length. How To Build A Quad Anchor: 3 - His anchor is a quad: Climbing Tools: One Handed Clove Hitch and Munter: 1 - The best one handed clove hitch: I'm a bot working hard to help Redditors find related videos to watch. Jul 6, 2014 · Mine is the ideal length: 19. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, Multipitch = quad with a quad length dyneema sling and more biners. You could get away with three lockers for the anchor, but four is better (more secure, better bend radius). I'll keep this updated as long as I can. No one will die, even if a bolt blows. I'd also use two longer quickdraws for when I dont have said double. Follow topic: Email Notify on site If you plan on doing a lot of top roping, a length of static line simply cannot be beat. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. You're taking big falls on the intermediate draws, and not usually the anchor, even when top roping, so worry at least as much about the rest of your gear, right? The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional You can use this anchor for basically anything now without having to worry each climb. Sometimes the routes wanders left and right a lot and you would want something self equalizing, like a sliding X with limiter knots. As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. OP probably was taught the quad, feels comfortable with it, and might be unaware of different rigging methods. You will need 20-30 feet of 6-7mm cordelette 2 locking carabiners for the rope, I use black diamonds RockLock 2 locking carabiners for the hangers, I use the black Posted by u/Sahilsinghvi - 1 vote and 12 comments Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. the anchor looks fine to me, I just question its utility. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. 16K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Oct 29, 2023 · Length: I would go with 240cm sling or cord. The only place o can see their functionality is in multipitch sport where you want a sound anchor to hang and belay off of. There is more like a sweet spot for each person. r/climbing A chip A close button A chip A close button Called the "Quad" and is supposed to be best compromise between equalization and non-extension. The only thing I can reason is if he were talking about a situation where every single anchor spot was filled. Anchor cord is static, and it does not stretch climbing rope is dynamic and needs to catch a fall. Get 100ft At a cost of $5 to $20 per bolt, if an engineer could cut 90% of that cost, they would. An eighth of an inch more or less is not ideal. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. Used for different things and have different strength ratings. if I needed the anchor to hang lower, I would (as you suggest) untie the "Quad" and rig something else that hangs lower. 16 votes, 42 comments. Step 3 – option 1: Rig your anchor with a quad. Cleaning: no difference. I used the same type of cord for sport anchors but I cut it to 20m and 10m for those. There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. IMO having a permanent cordelette quad is as important to a rack as a set of cams. the reason you want to have the middle loops a decent size is so your anchor equalizes and by shortening the distance between the knots you shorten the direction of pull degrees Dec 17, 2019 · Quad anchor using webbing. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. The two most popular techniques for doing this are the quad and the traditional overhand-knot anchor. Off-axis. The cool thing about this anchor is that I am able to build it on the ground and quickly set it up at the top. vjoc jxn klzpewi tsw pjxv tcygt aot wetj bqg yyi