Rock climbing edging and smearing. Bouldering vs Rock Climbing Route Grading Systems.
Rock climbing edging and smearing.
Jul 6, 2024 · This is, of course, utter nonsense.
Rock climbing edging and smearing It's the same in climbing. Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. These affordable lace-ups come fitted with the same Vibram XS Edge rubber as the premium, top-rated La Sportiva Katana Lace. The Climbing Technique Stations are a part of the Climbing Fundamentals Area where you can explore vertical terrain before heading out on the floor. Smearing on a dimple which is just a couple of degrees lower in angle can make a big difference. Here’s a brief clip where Neil Gresham demonstrates the smear and how to execute it correctly. Depending on your body position, almost any hold, even a seemingly blank place on an overhanging wall, can be smeared. Search… Here we cover some of the most common Rock Climbing Foot Holds. The Mad Rock sole is harder than the mid-sole area, giving it a balance of firmness and sensitivity. Climbing enthusiasts often find themselves pondering the ever-evolving techniques and strategies that can make or break their ascents. After a few months of wear, the rubber had worn down a bit, and they felt more sensitive and smearing capabilities improved. Unlike Jun 5, 2024 · Edging and smearing are two rock climbing terms that describe the main footwork techniques. Dec 29, 2023 · Smearing in rock climbing is a friction-based technique where you place the flat rubber sole of your climbing shoes directly onto the rock instead of a reliable edge or better foot placement. You do not attempt climbing a natural rock without training your moves effectively in the gym. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It involves pressing the sole of your shoe into the rock, generally keeping your heel lower than your forefoot, to create as large a contact area as possible to securely grip smooth surfaces such as slabs or volumes—and impress with your performance on both. Regardless of what you are climbing, high-quality rubber is always a huge benefit in any style of slab climbing. Both bouldering and rock climbing use grading systems to indicate the difficulty of a particular problem or route. Aug 4, 2023 · Smearing is a rock climbing technique that involves using a smooth, featureless portion of the wall as a foothold. Feb 14, 2022 · Smearing This is the next technique to master; it’s harder than edging because you can’t necessarily “see” a smear. Choosing one is a matter of preference and climbing style. Oct 24, 2023 · What is Smearing in Rock Climbing. Trusting small features and confidently smearing on smooth stone requires high sensitivity from a climbing shoe. It’s called edging because you place your feet on tiny narrow edges of rock, often thinner than 3 fingers. Jan 11, 2022 · Sometimes they’re climbing “moderate” 2,000-3,000-foot big walls that are a technical mix of face climbing, smearing, and crack climbing from fingers to off-width. Mar 17, 2022 · The rock climbing technique dogma is essentially to keep your arms feeling weightless and place the burden on your feet. Jun 11, 2024 · The four slab climbing secrets covered here are broken down with easy-to-follow cues to help you execute on the wall. The 4mm of Vibram XS Grip2 rubber on the stoles of the Otaki felt a little bulky and unnervingly thick initially, and it took a few days of wear to feel supple on the rock. Nov 15, 2023 · In a nutshell, while smearing involves relying on your shoe’s friction against the rock to maintain balance, edging is all about utilizing the narrow edges of your climbing shoe to find purchase on small ledges or holds. It is particularly useful on smooth or slabby surfaces where traditional footholds are minimal or nonexistent. . For over 25 years, he has helped world-class and aspiring rock climbers alike pursue their passion and achieve their goals. It is an intricate footwork technique that requires climbers to shift their body weight and maintain balance while standing on small and often sloping footholds. Rock climbing shoes are available with three closure styles: lace-up, velcro (hook and loop), and slip-on. Dec 29, 2023 · Smearing is a rock climbing technique where you place the sole of your climbing shoe flat against the rock wall. This can be your inside edge, with the bonus of stability from your big toe, or the outside of your foot. Climbing shoes have rubber soles to increase friction between you and the wall. These techniques help maintain traction and stability, crucial for successful slab climbing. The ideal time to employ smearing is when climbing slabby or moderately angled rock that lacks defined holds. Find out how smearing reduces stress on finger and hand holds, enhances precision and control, and increases stability on slippery surfaces. The shoe has a 2-strap closure for a more secure fit. Best Slab Climbing Shoes For Hard Rock Edging Edging prowess is usually at odds with sensitivity and smearing capability, as adding stiffness to the shoe reduces the ability of the shoe to transmit the nuances of the rock to the foot. When we climb, our feet are our foundation. To smear, as you are pulling with straight arms on your handholds, push your toes and balls of your feet flat on the wall to create Apr 16, 2025 · Rock climbing shoes are one category of gear where performance closely corresponds to price. La Sportiva Bushido 3 (Review upcoming) Topics include: Footwork • Edging • Smearing • Backstep • Toe Hook • Heel Hook • Drop Knee • Kneebar • Share Lesson Alex Honnold & Tommy Caldwell Despite their differences, both smearing and edging are essential skills in a climber's repertoire, adaptable to various types of rock and climbing styles. Slab Climbing Tips and Tricks Maximizing Rubber Contact with the wall when smearing. Dec 8, 2022 · Edging and smearing are two rock climbing terms that describe the main footwork techniques. Edging involves placing the edge of your shoe on a foothold, while smearing uses the friction between your shoe and the rock surface. Jan 16, 2024 · Smearing comes in handy in a variety of climbing situations when the rock face does not offer many distinct holds to grip. Sep 11, 2020 · Where cracks and smearing are key these perform well and give all day comfort. Check out our blog: ascendingflow. That’s the ultimate use for Five Ten’s new NIAD VCS, the updated version of the discontinued Anasazi line of shoes, which includes lace and slipper style shoes. Smearing is a climbing technique where the climber uses the friction between the sole of their climbing shoe and a rock surface to gain traction, rather than relying on a distinct foothold. Proper footwork for rock climbing is crucial. Nov 11, 2023 · If you are on a higher-angle slab, then smearing gets more tricky and the climbing becomes more like face climbing. ” Workout techniques to perfect with Edging Climbing. What is Smearing? In this method of climbing, you press your foot against a rock and utilize the forces of friction to keep you stable. Learn how this technique improves footwork, balance, and stability, allowing climbers to conquer challenging routes with confidence. Apr 25, 2024 · Smearing. The angle of the foot to the wall should he about 45 degrees. How you position your body depends on the location of these holds and the angle of the rock. What are the basic rock climbing footwork techniques that will improve climbing technique and efficiency? Basic footwork for rock climbing includes mastering these 4 techniques: Edging, Smearing, Toe Hook, and Heel Hook. Keep reading to learn more about this important technique. An expert climber will know how to use smearing climbing to reach to the top while utilizing the tiniest support the rock has to offer. Smearing utilizes friction and doesn’t depend on having an edge to weight. Focus on distributing your weight uniformly throughout the climbing shoe's sole to make the most amount of contact with the rock. These are maybe the best smearing climbing shoes for that flexibility and softness but will stretch a couple of sizes in time. Outdoors, it’s easier to smear on granite and sandstone, because they don’t have a smooth surface. Jul 15, 2024 · Smearing is a climbing technique where the climber uses the friction between the sole of their shoe and the rock surface to gain upward movement. You can use the inside edge, where your big Oct 22, 2024 · Smearing is a climbing technique that involves using the rubber sole of climbing shoes to create friction against a rock surface when there are minimal or no footholds available. wordpress. Apr 5, 2022 · 1) Edging. Outside, the Mastia’s adeptness at smearing and edging makes it ideal for vertical to overhanging face climbing on granite, sandstone, and conglomerate Feb 16, 2015 · Edging: using the inside of the foot to stand on a foothold. Smearing is when you press the sole of your shoe into the rock and propel yourself up using only the friction you get from your climbing shoe – click here for the top 10. Bouldering vs Rock Climbing Route Grading Systems. Think about climbing a ladder—you don't pull yourself up, you step up, and use your arms and hands for balance. Every climber knows this basic technique, but do you always edge correctly? The classic mistake is to stand on the rounded, middle part of your shoe edge (ie: closer to the instep) and not the front, toe part. Dave is an Owner & COO of the Philadelphia Rock Gyms and Program Director & Founder of the PRG Climbing School & Climbing Team. Multi-pitch trad, slabby sport, and technical face climbing on terrible holds; the Masai will eat it all up with ease. Smearing vs. Mar 15, 2024 · Check out this epic drone fly-through of On The Rocks Climbing Gym! Boulding and Rope Rock Climbing Walls. Unlike traditional climbing methods that rely on distinct edges or holds for foot placements, smearing requires climbers to trust the friction between their shoes and Edging is a type of feet position when climbing. Climbing: edging, smearing, and jamming. Typically you need edging when you try to place your feet on a foothold that’s too small to fit your whole foot. Broken down into small, digestible lessons, these stations are designed to guide you through the foundational concepts of climbing such as basic climbing terminology, efficient foot placement, and different body positions. Developing the correct footwork and optimal use of your feet, not only will save you a lot of energy while mastering climbing How you grip handholds or stand on footholds depends on their shape, size and position. So, what exactly is smearing in rock climbing, and why is it revered as a fundamental skill among climbers? May 10, 2021 · Some of the rock-climbing skills that have been honed over the years include edging, smearing, stemming, flagging, lay-backing, mantle, underling, side pull, and so on. Situations Calling for Smearing. Edging. Search. There are limitless ways to describe positioning your climbing shoes on a foothold, but the main two you’ll hear in the rock climbing gym are edging and smearing. Mar 23, 2023 · This allows for greater toe-in power on steep terrain, but can be uncomfortable for some styles like crack climbing. Closure Style. Rock climbing is intuitive when you are practiced, skilled, and adept in techniques. How important is footwork in slab climbing? Focus on pushing your foot against the rock with your weight concentrated over your big toe. Also consider the Five Ten MoccAsym’s below for a similar shoe in a slip on. Climbing with a partner or under the supervision of an experienced climber can provide added safety and support. Sep 4, 2023 · This is another great rock climbing shoe that suits the type of climbing pursued by most of the people I know: moderate to hard sport climbing and bouldering, outdoors and in the climbing gym. So, get ready to dive into the science that enables climbers to defy gravity with every step. Apr 17, 2025 · The Mad Rock M5 Climbing Shoes have an asymmetric shape with a concave flat sole for a great hook on overhung terrains. Feb 9, 2023 · Smearing is a straightforward technique in rock climbing that is relatively simple to pull off initially but takes some practice to master. Smearing is a technique used on any angle of climb – even the steepest climbs may involve smearing of some sort to get through a tricky section. Practising in a climbing gym builds strength, endurance, flexibility and technique, but to climb well on real rock, you’ll need to actually climb on real rock. You achieve this friction by pushing your feet directly into the wall, using it as a foothold via the friction you create with your weight. Smears require a deliberate technique due to their lack of defined edges. However, the grading systems used for each discipline differ. Climbers often switch between the two techniques based on the terrain, showcasing the importance of versatility and skill in overcoming climbing challenges. Basic techniques for using your feet are edging and smearing: Edging is exactly what it sounds like: You step on a hold with the rubber on the edge of your shoe. When a company designs a new suite of shoes, they send pairs to us and our testers, and we climb in them, compare notes, write a review, and then, later, do a roundup of the latest and greatest releases of the year. Edging: A foothold position wherein the foot is precisely held on the hold, generally on the inside area of the big toe. A stiffer shoe will offer you superior underfoot support, acting like a platform for you to stand on, and saving your muscles from over-excursion as you dig into small edges. What good is an approach shoe if it can’t handle the climb as well? On alpine rock, you’ll want a shoe that can smear, edge, and jam with aplomb. ‘Edging’ is standing on a small edge or a tiny ledge. Smearing ‘Smearing’ is a friction-based technique for climbing or bouldering. This is the first video in our rock climbing movement series. Edging involves stepping onto a hold with the rubber edge of your shoe. Jan 22, 2022 · Smearing This is the next technique to master; it’s harder than edging because you can’t necessarily “see” a smear. Nor does it have anything to do with coating a section of a climb with a sticky substance, or any of the other definitions of the word. Aug 4, 2023 · This comprehensive blog post aims to guide you through the maze of rock climbing by providing you with the vital insights and detailed instructions you need to improve your rock climbing skills through the effective application of advanced edging and smearing techniques. Jul 6, 2024 · This is, of course, utter nonsense. Flagging: a climbing technique in which one foot is crossed behind the other to avoid barn-dooring and to improve balance. No, in climbing, smearing means something else entirely. Nov 11, 2023 · In this article, we will uncover the fascinating physics behind smearing on the rock, unraveling the secrets behind this essential skill in the world of climbing. There’s a good reason it has become one of the most popular Tenaya shoes ever created. Dec 29, 2022 · Dave Rowland. 13, with great results on all sorts of terrain: on a 30-degree-overhanging sandstone jug haul in Boulder’s Flatirons; on 35-meter, 20-degree-overhanging gneiss pitches with jamming, smearing, edging, and divot standing; and on volume-studded auto-belay routes at the Boulder Rock Club. While the MaXX2 has one of the stickiest outsoles and better tread for technical terrain, the Vertex has a better outsole for actual rock climbing and smearing/edging. Smearing in climbing has nothing to do with smear campaigns. Rock climbing shoes typically feature one of three closure Jan 30, 2024 · Skip to content. The secrets start with smearing and maximizing rubber contact. There's also a May 27, 2025 · I used the Arpia V on climbs up to 5. Over time you will develop the ability to find tiny irregularities in the rock. So, just what is smearing in rock climbing exactly? Feb 27, 2024 · Stiff models are perhaps the most obvious best climbing shoes for edging. Some situations where smearing shines: Oct 27, 2021 · Rock climbing involves a number of different techniques including smearing, jamming and edging. Jul 17, 2021 · Smearing describes a specific rock climbing foot technique that uses the friction between the sole of your shoe and the rock or climbing wall. Gain insights into the benefits of weight distribution, energy conservation Nov 15, 2023 · However, if you’re looking for a shoe that can tackle a multitude of technical rock climbing, then the Masai is an awesome choice. Heel hook: the use of the heel on a hold, usually near chest level, to aid in pulling and balance. Two basic techniques to master are edging and smearing. Nov 7, 2023 · When practicing edging or any climbing activity, safety should always be a top priority. The sole of your climbing shoe is thrust directly into a rock to acquire Smearing. Smearing is the act of pushing rubber, usually under the big toe, across vague features on the rock to create purchase. In the realm of rock climbing, the term “smearing” serves as a cornerstone technique that can quite literally mean the difference between reaching the summit or taking an unplanned plunge. Apr 21, 2020 · How to Practice Smearing Effectively in Climbing. Ah yes, the business. Traditionally the best edging climbing has been the flat-lasted models with a full-length midsole. Nov 7, 2023 · Discover why smearing is crucial in climbing. Dec 26, 2005 · However, if a shoe is too burly, you’ll end up having precious little sensitivity on the rock. For this type of rock, you’re going to need a shoe that offers a little extra support to push off those tiny features. If there was a spectrum of climbing footwork techniques, smearing would be Apr 30, 2023 · Think of edging shoes as your stalwart companions, steadfastly supporting your feet on minute ledges, as opposed to softer, downturned shoes that excel in smearing or digging into the rock. The two most common types of foothold we use when looking at our footwork are edges and smears. Key techniques for slab climbing include smearing (using the shoe sole on the rock for friction), edging (standing on the rock’s small edges), balancing, and making static movements. Smearing: when you place your foot directly on the rock or wall. Edging off the middle is less stable and you won’t be able to stand-up on point to gain extra reach. While it's true that all climbing shoes can be used for edging to some extent, those with a stiffer construction and a flat shape will always outshine others. The smearing technique is most often used in slab climbing. comFollow us on Twitter: @ascendingflow Jan 31, 2022 · Precise edging was out, and smearing was in—pasting the ball of the foot directly onto the rock, letting the edge, crystal, or merest rugosity “bite” into the boot sole. Jul 6, 2024 · Unlike smearing, where the climber relies on friction between the shoe and the rock surface, edging involves precise foot placement and leveraging the stiffness of the climbing shoe to maximize contact and support. Proper use of safety gear, including a harness, helmet, and appropriate belay devices, is essential to prevent accidents and injuries. In this article, we want to take a deeper look at smearing, one of the unique rock-climbing techniques involving your footwork. Basically, to smear, you place your foot onto the rock (a dish or dip is helpful here), drop your heel, and press your body weight into your foot. Aug 6, 2024 · Mastering Footwork for Better Climbing Edging and Smearing Techniques. It is good to be best prepared before treading on a tough task. This can be terrifying but with the right shoes, you can smear your way up a Edging, also known as smearing, refers to using the inside edges of the climbing shoes to push against small footholds on the rock face. The rounded toe top is good for smearing and the pointy tip fits into Dec 24, 2023 · Slab climbing requires an understanding of the subtleties of smearing. Some climbers referred to this new technique as “smedging. ‘Smearing’ is when the rock is featureless so we smear as much of the surface of our boot against the rock as possible and use the friction of the boot rubber to hold our foot in place. Bargain hunters can rejoice, however, because the La Sportiva Finale is a fortunate exception to this rule. Mar 10, 2025 · Here he can evaluate a shoe’s edging and smearing prowess on the polished holds at Rimer’s Ranch and other quality locales. When placing a smear or smearing, you rely solely on the friction created between the sticky rubber of your climbing shoes and the rock. Smearing: Apr 29, 2025 · The MaXX2 has more cushioning that and has a bit more pleasant and compliant feel underfoot It is also lighter and more responsive. One such technique is smearing, a crucial skill that involves using friction between the climbing shoe and the rock surface to find stability in precarious situations. qpklrpwhhzbxuxghzimmrokbmczwqfmecubagbxosafngj