Yds to v scale Exactly what I wanted. The V-Scale is used for bouldering, ranging from V0 (easiest) to V16 (most difficult). Apr 27, 2025 · The French scale, or algo-1, is the standard for the sport climbing in Europe. 11b to 5. Some gyms use the classic V-grade system, marking each boulder problem with a V-grade on a tag or piece of tape at its start. The grades, annotated with roman numerals, indicate the length of the climb, and are intended to help climbers properly prepare for their ascent. For example you place V5 at 5. 15d (hardest), with sub Scales are used by boulderers, Font and V scale are mostly used. For a basic overview of how the grades work, check out this article with Climbing Magazine . He has over 400 first ascents at Hueco Tanks in Texas between the 1980s and 1990s. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A YDS grade is split into two numbers separated by a period and looks like this: Class. Here, we’ll take a look at how the conversion works and why it’s important. As a beginner rock climber or foreign climber trying to climb in America, you'll want to become familiar with the Yosemite Decimal System, or YDS. In North America both sport and trad rock climbs are graded using the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System). These rating systems have since been supplanted by the V-Scale and the Font Scale. V-scale: The V-scale is a bouldering grading system used primarily in the United Aug 18, 2017 · YDS stands for the Yosemite Decimal System and it is a grading system for hiking, scrambling, and climbing. In contrast, bouldering grades use the V-scale or Fontainebleau scale, as mentioned earlier. Feb 19, 2021 · Like the YDS, the V scale is completely open-ended, and the highest grade on the scale will continue to increase as the sport progresses. However, like the YDS Scale, it is still increasing as climbers send more challenging problems. Jul 8, 2024 · The Yosemite Decimal System. Most rock climbs over 20 feet tall in the U. TL;DR V0 is supposed to be hard. Apr 21, 2023 · Over the next few weeks, we are talking all about grades in The Approach. The system is primarily used in Australia and New Zealand. In bouldering, the V-Scale stands out. Many gyms use a coloured V-grade range system, wherein the colour of the tape or holds on a problem correspond to a range of V-grades. Apr 29, 2024 · The most common free-climbing grading scales are the French, US or Yosemite Decimal System, and the UK scale. The document has moved here. 12 b/c while Wiki compares V5 to ~ 5. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. There are 3 parts to a YDS grade. There are a number of different grading systems and here in the US there are two main Apr 13, 2025 · From the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) to the Fontainebleau grades, this article will serve as your go-to reference for decoding climbing difficulty. Moved Permanently. Feb 9, 2023 · the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) An additional system comes into play to more finely describe the difficulty of fifth class routes. ‘Vermin’, as his friends called him, realized that a consistent system for grading boulder problems would help new climbers and veterans alike, and the V scale was first published in his guidebook to bouldering in Hueco Tanks. Oct 12, 2020 · The French Scale is much more convertible between its top-rope and bouldering equivalents, while the YDS and American bouldering scale, the V scale, are not as convertible. The V scale was developed by pioneering American boulderer John Sherman. Key Takeaways Mar 7, 2025 · An equivalent 6b+ on the Font scale would roughly translate to a V4 on the V-scale. Unlike other systems, the V-Scale is consistent globally, making it easier for boulderers to communicate. The Bouldering V Scale, also known as the Hueco scale, was created by the famous American rock climber John Sherman. 0 (like climbing a steep ladder) and progresses in difficulty up to 5. 6 (easiest) to 5. I’ll give you some pointers on applying both scales IRL! The 6c to V Scale Conversion Explained. Oct 15, 2021 · The two bouldering grading systems are the V Scale (used in the United States) and the Font Scale (used outside the US). 15c on the YDS scale The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) The Yosemite Decimal System , also known as YDS, is used to determine hiking difficulty and sport climbing routes based in North America. The V-scale ranges from V0 (the easiest) to V16 (the hardest), with each grade marking a step up in difficulty. For instance, a 7a+ on the French scale can actually climb like a 5. This is the class. , you can find YDS grades all around the world. are graded using the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). Bouldering, unlike sport climbing with its myriad grading systems, simplifies things with two main grading scales – the V Scale and Font Scale. While there are other scales like the B-Scale, P-Scale, Joshua Tree Scale, and others, they don’t command the same prominence. 12a. 15 (hardest). Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. -based Sierra Club in the 1950s, the YDS unified and refined previous climbing grade systems from the early days of Yosemite Valley climbing. Free climbing grades are generally understood to reflect the hardest move or section on a particular route. Like the Yosemite Decimal System, it takes into account the difficulty of the holds, foot placements and muscular moves, not the danger of the route. and its equivalents can be seen below in the chart. 0 to 5. Here's a bouldering-to-YDS conversion chart I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. To translate a 7b into a V-scale grade, climbers need to take into account the style, movement and rock type. Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) This is the most widely used rating in the U. As climbers and their gear got better, even harder climbs were being sent, and the need arose to open the scale. Oct 23, 2023 · The V-scale, used for bouldering, and the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), used for route climbing, represent two distinct grading systems tailored to their specific forms of climbing. S. Scroll down, or click here to view: the basic YDS: Class 1-5 for rock climbing (not ice) YDS fifth class subdivisions (5. are rated. 10d on the Yosemite decimal system. Let’s break it down the grade 5. YDS CLASS General terrain difficulty grading system (U. Most climbers will agree that 7b is roughly V7 or V8 on the V-scale. We recommend Instantprint where an A1 poster costs around £16 (+VAT and delivery). Mar 4, 2025 · The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), and the V-Scale or “Hueco Scale”. with 9A(equal to V17) being the maximum level reached thus far. 8 in the gym or a 5. Sherman does, however, have a very famous guidebook to his name—Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America. 12b/c in the YDS. Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re wondering how the Fontainebleau (or “Font”) system—like 9A—converts to the V scale or Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), here’s a quick answer: 9A in the Font scale equals about V17; That’s also roughly 5. May 4, 2020 · American Bouldering is graded on its own scale, known as the Hueco System (also known as the V Scale). 11d in YDS May 31, 2020 · Grading happens both indoors and outdoors. Two of the most widely used systems are the V-scale in North America and the Fontainebleau scale in Europe. From the Yosemite Decimal System that offers a glimpse at the rockface’s difficulty level and degree of challenge to the V Scale, which gives an idea of the bouldering rating, it’s essential to understand each so you know precisely what you’re in for. 0 (class + difficulty) and currently goes up to 5. 12b in the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). Jun 5, 2023 · The Yosemite climbing scale was developed by Royal Robbins, Don Wilson, and Chuck Wilts in Southern California in the early 1950s. All climbing grades begin with the number five. Currently, the scale starts at V0 and goes up to V17. something Grades 1 to 4 refer to walks of increasing difficulty, by the time you reach 5 you are assumed to be scrambling over rocks which equates to about 5. They do not indicate time commitment or duration. Saxon, Fontainebleau), mostly countries (South African, Brazilian, French, etc. 11a, etc. Many systems exist worldwide, though the most common are the Yosemite system and the French system — we’ll talk more about the various systems in a moment. In other words, the lowest grade on the V-Scale, V0, requires a climber to complete moves that would be graded 5. The latter is much more reasonable in my experience. The V Scale goes from 0 to 17 and may have a + or – for further The V scale. Your chart seems to be more aggressively rating the V-grade scale to YDS. A typical French grade would therefore be written as f6c+. See full list on rei. 15 (an overhanging cliff). Apr 27, 2025 · 6c roughly equals V5 in the Hueco (V) Scale and 5. Each grade reflects the perceived difficulty of completing a boulder problem, considering factors such as holds, movement complexity, and the height of the climb. Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style. Yosemite Decimal System (YDS): predominantly used in North America, this system ranges from 5. Mar 23, 2025 · Bouldering V Scale. This scale is more straightforward than the YDS Scale and ranges in difficulty from V0-V17. In the USA, both indoor and outdoor routes are graded on the Yosemite Decimal System. This guide breaks down why that is, how the grading systems compare, and what it means for your climbing. For instance, a V11 on the V-scale would roughly equal an 8a on the French scale. Apr 27, 2025 · Climbing style and route characteristics have a significant influence on these conversions. The V Scale begins at V0 and the current limit is at V17. Wikipedia, my first resource, failed me here. 13) editorial comments on the standard YDS classes Mar 17, 2023 · For starters, North American sport climbing uses the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) which is entirely different from the V-scale system. The V-scale is an open-ended scale that starts at V0 (although a slightly easier "VB" has been used for beginners), and increases in single-digit steps (i. YDS is the dominant classification system in the United States and parts of Canada. Starting simply, a grade is difficulty assigned to a climb. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing. , V2, V5, V8). Feb 4, 2015 · Skala: Länder: Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary: East German Rating System (GDR (Saxon)) Jan 6, 2024 · The V-Scale. The V-scale’s spectrum is expansive. Comparing these scales is somewhat akin to comparing sprinting to a marathon; while both are running, the skills and attributes required are quite different. Feb 28, 2023 · V-Scale The V-Scale was developed by John “Vermin” Sherman and is how boulder problems in the U. Even today, many grade systems are confined to certain geographical areas, sometimes climbing areas (e. 0. One other feature of the V scale, like the YDS grade system, is its open-ended nature. 0 was capped at 5. It starts from V0 (easier) and goes up with additional letters for nuances in difficulty (e. Grade conversion between the two scales isn’t easy—the Font Scale has more grade options than the V Scale, and both scales are subject to regional differences and individual climbers’ body types, opinions, and skill sets—but in general, here’s how the two scales Dec 9, 2024 · The V-scale was invented in the 1980s by John Sherman, nicknamed “Vermin,” hence the V. While these grading systems are widely used, they are subjective and have even evolved over time, so we often hear about the inconsistency climbers see between different climbing The French scale makes use of numbers, letters and plus (+) grades to further refine the grading process, giving it more intermediate steps than the UIAA scale. It ranges from 1 to 34, with additional letters (a, b, c) used to further refine the difficulty. Grades in bouldering. 9. Yosemite Decimal System(YDS) is a grading system commonly found in the United States, starting with a 5. This system starts at 5. Hueco to French grade and French grade to Hueco or VScale to French and French to VScale is the most common conversion climbers are looking for. Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re trying to figure out how 6c+ in the Fontainebleau system converts to the V Scale or Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), the answer is pretty simple: 6c+ roughly equals V5/V6 in the Hueco V Scale and 5. e. We use the term 'current upper bound' because elite outdoor climbers continue to establish and send increasingly difficult climbs. The YDS Grades are listed below: Grade I: 1-2 hours Grade II: < half day Grade III: Half Day Mar 25, 2024 · Sport climbing grades are typically denoted using the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) in the United States, ranging from 5. And also just like the V-scale, a plus or minus sign may be put in front of the grade to more specifically determine it's level, for example: 5b- is an easier problem than simply 5b. On the other hand, the YDS is used for roped climbing, with ratings like 5. Developed by the U. V0 has changed to become more synonymous with 5. Mar 30, 2023 · For bouldering, on the other hand, there are varying systems in place. Just like the V-scale, this grade system is open-ended. :P Thanks for posting this, was looking for some such scale, yours was one of the first hits. V5, V6, V7), and was at V17 in 2023 with Burden of Dreams. Now, the V grades are just about the only bouldering grading system one encounters in the United States. 6, 5. This time metric is graded by the NCCS (National Climbing Classification Scale). The grades in the tables are assigned a colour code that spans the various grading systems. . Nov 1, 2024 · The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is a grading scale that evaluates the difficulty of hiking and climbing routes, especially for mountaineering and rock climbing. Apr 27, 2025 · For reference, a V0 on the V Scale translates to about a 5. g. We know that climbing grades can be intimidating. The YDS does not apply to bouldering routes; instead, either the French Scale (usually referred to by its other name, the Fontainebleau Scale or Font Scale for short) or the Hueco V Scale is used. Sherman was an early bouldering pioneer. This system ranges from V0 to V16, with V0 considered to be easy and V16 saved for the elite. Most climbing gyms offer a range of V0 to V10/V11. YDS. Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re trying to understand how 8A in the Fontainebleau grading system compares to the V Scale or Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), here’s your quick answer: 8A on the Fontainebleau scale equals V11 on the V Scale; 8A also translates to about 5. Aug 30, 2021 · Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) — 5. 15c, though only a handful of such routes exist in the world. 11 a/b. [2] In North America, bouldering problems use a different scale than climbing routes. It's the system used to grade the technical difficulty of rock climbs. , and especially for bouldering. 10d on the Yosemite Decimal System. Apr 27, 2025 · The V-scale is widely used in the U. Developed in the 1950s in Yosemite National Park, this system was created by rock climbers to standardize ratings for various routes. 15. 11d on the Yosemite Decimal System. 14a in sport climbing grades Download Bouldering Grade PDF – Comparison between Font, V and UK tech grades. While it is primarily used in the U. This is why each rating system is different in how they rate difficulty. Key Climbing Grade Systems. The V-scale, widely used in the United States, ranks problems from V0 (easiest) to V16 (most difficult). Sub-Grade (Yosemite Decimal System). When I started climbing, there were two rating options for bouldering: doing your best to apply the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) to boulder problems or using the Gill System, neither of which was entirely satisfactory. Feb 14, 2024 · V Scale & Font Scale: Two Prominent Grading Systems. ) or even continents (Ewbanks, YDS) and sometimes they got exported to and established themselves in different areas making some grade systems more ubiquitous The "old-school" scale started at 5. Originally known as the Southern California or Wilts-Sierra system, it eventually became cemented as the Yosemite Decimal System, despite its inception outside of Yosemite. The V-scale is the most popular bouldering grade system in use in the United States. Overall, the YDS and the French Scale are fairly easy to convert between, but since they are used in different regions, you are likely to see large regional differences May 27, 2025 · Understanding the Yosemite Decimal System: A Guide to Rock Climbing Grades in North America. Why do bouldering grades vary between Font and V-scale? The Font and V-scale systems were both invented in Europe but in very different cultural areas. The scale starts at 5. The V-scale, which was created solely for bouldering, offers a cleanly linear grade. What Is a Climbing Difficulty Ranking? A climbing difficulty ranking is a standardized scale used to assess the technical challenge, physical demand, and risk associated with a climbing route. 9/easy jugs in many areas (joe's valley, red rocks, etc. 15 (most difficult). The grade of a rock route is usually based on the crux, the most difficult move. The lower bound of the scale is V0, and the current upper bound is V17. First published in 1994, the book contained the infamous V-Scale (V for Vermin) made its debut. Mar 7, 2021 · But if you are serious about this amazing, adventurous sport, you’ll need to know all about climbing grades and bouldering ratings. 0 (easiest) to 5. Rockfax Colour Codes. The V-scale doesn't consider risk and is purely focused on the technical difficulty of the movements. In 2016, Alex sent me a link to his page on Bouldering Grades, which he compares with the Yosemite Decimal System and sport climbing. Mar 17, 2012 · Thomas Graf, notice that the page you listed has no V to YDS conversion, only bouldering scales to bouldering scales, and rope scales to rope scales. The French scale is usually prefixed with an (f) to distinguish it from the Fontainbleau scale. Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re trying to figure out how the 6a+ grade converts to the V scale or Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), here’s a quick answer: 6a+ is roughly equal to V3-V4 on the V scale It’s also about the same as 5. The V-Scale is a bouldering grading system used in the United States, while the Fontainebleau system is used in France. When it comes to indoor climbing grades, two popular grading systems are the V-Scale and the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System). com Jan 28, 2022 · That is why the V-Scale starts at a fairly high level of effort compared to the YDS. ): V-Scale to YDS Conversion and Difficulty Scale I hesitated in including this conversion because the skill-set, strength and endurance needed to rock climb is so different from bouldering and isn’t easily comparable. Nov 13, 2023 · Australian Grading System: The Australian Grading System is similar to the YDS, but uses a different scale. The scale ranges from 1 to 5, with vertical pitches ranking at a 5-level difficulty with a decimal addition. Jun 23, 2024 · V-Scale vs. In the United States, we use the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). To begin the grade discussion, we first have to define just what a grade is. The YDS scale has now been pushed to 5. ) presumably so that bouldering areas have more of a lower end as opposed to having YDS grades in the guide like Jtree and Bishop have. Other similarly priced services are available. Outside, that same V0 could be more difficult or easier depending on things like the sun, rock quality, or how the problem is graded. Confusingly though, European sport climbers use the French sport climbing system which, just like Font Bouldering Grades, ranges from 1 – 9 and uses a,b and c as well as ‘+’ to signify a slight increase Yosemite Decimal System - Grades: The Yosemite Decimal System also includes an optional Grade rating. wqavl rextx iuhnx wnnst qoa lrndq ladqdf acelhqri aqx mrpls